Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

cheers markimak. :huh:

and how does "lag" or lack of boost for a good 5-10 secconds sound for the lag in my head???

hrmmmm as i said its only my resutls, as its aslo a s15 not a skyline... different motor turbo different everything. altho the pressure control system is all the same with a MBC

5-10 seconds....you've got to be kidding. I'd say there's something wrong with your car, or you installed the controller COMPLETELY wrong

I'd imagine he'd be slightly exaggerating - it does feel like a long time though prob about 1-2 secs to get full boost back, doesn't sound long but when your flyin along it feels like 10 secs... And no, its definately not in our heads lag is lag and somehow i dont think the boost gauge is making me imagine things either. Regardless - they are much better with the hole.

yes it was exaggeration but its atleast a good 2 secconds b4 i started to see boost pressure again.

neways i fixed the problem now, its all good now with the hole...

can ppl please post up how much boost in PSI they are runnin with this controler just to get an idea of what pressures do what with the MBC

How big should the hole be??? I ran 24psi in the middle and its dropping to about 19psi at the top end. I dont know whether its the boost controller, stock BOV or what??? Going to try the actuator arm at that boost level but it did drop a little when i set it at 21psi. Maybe i should try the BOV. I dont mind really as my tune is nice and safe with the reducing boost top end

I have one of the new ones without the hole on my S14, and it boosts full boost (12psi) instantly on gear changes. I mean instant. The needle just flies back up to 12 when you put your foot down.

Hi,

I'm in Christchurch New Zealand.. I'm after one of these controllers but no-one wants to post..

I'd be very keen to pay your $25 AUD + freight to NZ + a bonus if you were keen on sending to New Zealand.. I can transfer funds via paypal if you're keen..

Thanks,

Scott Roberts.

Hey there is a guy on trademe selling these -

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-88305457.htm

I'm guessing these will work exactly the same. I'm in the process of getting one now, will let you know how it runs

I've been keeping a close eye on these from since the beginning and have recommended & convinced many mates to buy one :)

Now... Just recently I've decided to listen to my own gospel and bought one myself! Makes a big difference compared to the previous GFB Atomic Bleed Valve I had in there and I haven't fully tested it yet (damn traffic in way atm...)

Update: Just tested it on 12PSI. Makes a MASSIVE difference compared to my original GFB... Feels like untuned car has a turbo lurking in it again instead of N/A acceleration. Also in regards to the "no hole = lag between gears", I don't seem to see any issue, I change gear, split second later its on full boost again.

Edited by fluent
I think the recent change in design has stuffed it.

My old turbotech works flawlessly, I've had it on mine and another rb30det gt35r .82 ext. gate and it works 100% perfect.

Just get one of these, improved version of turbotech and has 1mm hole on them, i use one and i swear by it.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JRD-Boost-Controlle...1QQcmdZViewItem

i got one of these last week, at first i wasnt very impressed with it. The one shown on ebay was blue anodised with brass fitting san dstainless steel bolts what i recieved was a unit sprayed black with vice marks on each side, brass fittings and a s/s bolt. Thats about my only complaint about it visually.

Installed it piece of piss. Initially set boost to about 15psi on a RB20+R34 turbo. Was proabably a bit much for the turbo and would bleed of to about 13-14psi. Wound the screw out a bit to 13psi and it holds it sweet now.

So does drilling the hole make u drop boost at high RPM? Who can confirm this?

My car will be going on the dyno next week, i will see how the manifold pressure holds and let you guys know. :)

i decided this mornin to try drillin a hole in it figured if i stuff it it's only $25 for a new one.

Anyway drilled a 1mm hole on the opposite side to the actuator barb i was worried i might of drilled the hole a lil bit to far down. fitted everythin back together and threw it back on my car.

All i can say is every1 should do this!!! my boost needle no longer drops below 0 on quick gear changes. Boost still bleeds of a lil at high revs but seein as mine was droppin 2-3psi b4 at hi revs i'm not really phased.

An easy 5 min mod has made my car performe heaps better.

hmm..

well ive paid for 4 controllers 2 with holes and 2 without holes. i dnt want my GTR being a test mule love it too much so the GTT and the S14a will be the poor guinea cops. the S14a would pull a carlength on the GTT. but since then the S14a has had a full exhaust. so the GTT is gonna get one of mark's controllers to start off. i will do a full write up of how mark's controllers run with the predilled hole. and the non drilled.

stay tuned.

mark.

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

lmfao.

Quite the opposite actually. You have no clue.

The design of the ball/spring mbc has changed from its origional. Before it was great with its origional position of the relief hole, now with no hole or having the hole higher up near the adjustment bolts thread its not so great.

There MUST be a form of relief otherwise the actuator will hold the wastegate open. Without a hole or some form of internal relief it will create a feeling of spool being lazy when you select the next gear. It may be that the bloke who makes them has forgotten to drill a hole or placed the hole slightly too high causing the bolt to foul with its relief operation. Some have had no ball bearing in their bleeder so there IS a small quality issue, but for the price they are who cares.

Once again. LMAO. :/

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

Ovisously you have no idea...

Do you have both forms of the controller? The thread was started with the initial design that INCLUDED the hole - BTw i am still pretty happy with a $25 contoller that i had to drill a hole into to work better than most controllers over 3 times the price if not more.

Edited by R33silverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...