Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

cheers markimak. :huh:

and how does "lag" or lack of boost for a good 5-10 secconds sound for the lag in my head???

hrmmmm as i said its only my resutls, as its aslo a s15 not a skyline... different motor turbo different everything. altho the pressure control system is all the same with a MBC

5-10 seconds....you've got to be kidding. I'd say there's something wrong with your car, or you installed the controller COMPLETELY wrong

I'd imagine he'd be slightly exaggerating - it does feel like a long time though prob about 1-2 secs to get full boost back, doesn't sound long but when your flyin along it feels like 10 secs... And no, its definately not in our heads lag is lag and somehow i dont think the boost gauge is making me imagine things either. Regardless - they are much better with the hole.

yes it was exaggeration but its atleast a good 2 secconds b4 i started to see boost pressure again.

neways i fixed the problem now, its all good now with the hole...

can ppl please post up how much boost in PSI they are runnin with this controler just to get an idea of what pressures do what with the MBC

How big should the hole be??? I ran 24psi in the middle and its dropping to about 19psi at the top end. I dont know whether its the boost controller, stock BOV or what??? Going to try the actuator arm at that boost level but it did drop a little when i set it at 21psi. Maybe i should try the BOV. I dont mind really as my tune is nice and safe with the reducing boost top end

I have one of the new ones without the hole on my S14, and it boosts full boost (12psi) instantly on gear changes. I mean instant. The needle just flies back up to 12 when you put your foot down.

Hi,

I'm in Christchurch New Zealand.. I'm after one of these controllers but no-one wants to post..

I'd be very keen to pay your $25 AUD + freight to NZ + a bonus if you were keen on sending to New Zealand.. I can transfer funds via paypal if you're keen..

Thanks,

Scott Roberts.

Hey there is a guy on trademe selling these -

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-88305457.htm

I'm guessing these will work exactly the same. I'm in the process of getting one now, will let you know how it runs

I've been keeping a close eye on these from since the beginning and have recommended & convinced many mates to buy one :)

Now... Just recently I've decided to listen to my own gospel and bought one myself! Makes a big difference compared to the previous GFB Atomic Bleed Valve I had in there and I haven't fully tested it yet (damn traffic in way atm...)

Update: Just tested it on 12PSI. Makes a MASSIVE difference compared to my original GFB... Feels like untuned car has a turbo lurking in it again instead of N/A acceleration. Also in regards to the "no hole = lag between gears", I don't seem to see any issue, I change gear, split second later its on full boost again.

Edited by fluent
I think the recent change in design has stuffed it.

My old turbotech works flawlessly, I've had it on mine and another rb30det gt35r .82 ext. gate and it works 100% perfect.

Just get one of these, improved version of turbotech and has 1mm hole on them, i use one and i swear by it.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JRD-Boost-Controlle...1QQcmdZViewItem

i got one of these last week, at first i wasnt very impressed with it. The one shown on ebay was blue anodised with brass fitting san dstainless steel bolts what i recieved was a unit sprayed black with vice marks on each side, brass fittings and a s/s bolt. Thats about my only complaint about it visually.

Installed it piece of piss. Initially set boost to about 15psi on a RB20+R34 turbo. Was proabably a bit much for the turbo and would bleed of to about 13-14psi. Wound the screw out a bit to 13psi and it holds it sweet now.

So does drilling the hole make u drop boost at high RPM? Who can confirm this?

My car will be going on the dyno next week, i will see how the manifold pressure holds and let you guys know. :)

i decided this mornin to try drillin a hole in it figured if i stuff it it's only $25 for a new one.

Anyway drilled a 1mm hole on the opposite side to the actuator barb i was worried i might of drilled the hole a lil bit to far down. fitted everythin back together and threw it back on my car.

All i can say is every1 should do this!!! my boost needle no longer drops below 0 on quick gear changes. Boost still bleeds of a lil at high revs but seein as mine was droppin 2-3psi b4 at hi revs i'm not really phased.

An easy 5 min mod has made my car performe heaps better.

hmm..

well ive paid for 4 controllers 2 with holes and 2 without holes. i dnt want my GTR being a test mule love it too much so the GTT and the S14a will be the poor guinea cops. the S14a would pull a carlength on the GTT. but since then the S14a has had a full exhaust. so the GTT is gonna get one of mark's controllers to start off. i will do a full write up of how mark's controllers run with the predilled hole. and the non drilled.

stay tuned.

mark.

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

lmfao.

Quite the opposite actually. You have no clue.

The design of the ball/spring mbc has changed from its origional. Before it was great with its origional position of the relief hole, now with no hole or having the hole higher up near the adjustment bolts thread its not so great.

There MUST be a form of relief otherwise the actuator will hold the wastegate open. Without a hole or some form of internal relief it will create a feeling of spool being lazy when you select the next gear. It may be that the bloke who makes them has forgotten to drill a hole or placed the hole slightly too high causing the bolt to foul with its relief operation. Some have had no ball bearing in their bleeder so there IS a small quality issue, but for the price they are who cares.

Once again. LMAO. :/

this is a bit wierd, the last 65 pages states how good these perform, then in the last 5 pages, some of you say how crap they are until you drill a hole.

sounds to me you guys got no clue

Ovisously you have no idea...

Do you have both forms of the controller? The thread was started with the initial design that INCLUDED the hole - BTw i am still pretty happy with a $25 contoller that i had to drill a hole into to work better than most controllers over 3 times the price if not more.

Edited by R33silverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...