Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Long time since I have been on, buts its been a long time since I have really had the car back.

Long story short, I was in an accident in Late November, I got the car back after 3 months....

Ive had the car back for *about* 3months.

So today on my way home from work my entire Water Pump Housing cracked off and sent the fan partially through my brand new radiator!

Oh so annoying. Anyway, tomorrow I will find out if the Smash Repairers will fit the bill cause they obviously didnt replace the water pump even though it had been hit/damaged from my front on accident.

Im guessing there was a hairline fracture or something.

Here are the pics...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73837-this-is-a-rediculous/
Share on other sites

Fracture + a very very tight belt?

Yea, I was thinking that perhaps the belt was tentioned far to much and stressing the pump to much...

But you would have to be Hercules to do it that tight and not realise?

Im thinking that what may have happened is that the shaft was slightly damaged in the accident and it has grabbed on my way home. Im sure that even at 4k RPM it would be easier to snap that than to free itself up....

Hmmm, all speculation... I just really need it fixed.

Yeah it did happen to me, exept it happened with a brand new one the 1st day that it was on!

I got my money back for the pump plus a replacement pump and the money for a new fan and radiator, all from super cheap auto (took 2 months to get it though).

I put the pump on and I know I didnt over tighten it so I dunno what happened.

Yeah it did happen to me, exept it happened with a brand new one the 1st day that it was on!

I got my money back for the pump plus a replacement pump and the money for a new fan and radiator, all from super cheap auto (took 2 months to get it though).

I put the pump on and I know I didnt over tighten it so I dunno what happened.

Dumb ass... it wasnt 1st day you had it on. If it were first day it would have broken when we were testing it. It was at least a few months after because we had just done my water pump and timing belt on my r33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...