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Yeah, I reckon its was some synthetic fluid that started to make mine leak

I have used the Castrol stuff in the red bottle this time, just by pure chance :P

Its the blokes down at ACBS that warned me away from Synthetic fluid. :P

I couldn't believe my chances though, just pick the master cyl up and mine completely pops, I drove home rev matching, switching off at traffic lights, in to first and crank the key. lol

I topped my old master cylinder up before my last Mallala day with synthetic/silicone fluid I was using in my brakes. A week later the seal started to leak. It was always a constant leak though, so I just kept topping it up with the Castrol stuff.

either way its fixed now, and has a resivior full of Castrol fluid!

Good effort to get home with no clutch. Poor ol' RB20 'box!

I asked the guy about my pedal bleeding off slowly, and he reckons it has to be the master cylinder, not the slave.

The slave will only leak fluid, or suck in air. Good way to tell which is stuffed (master or slave) is to block off the line and press the pedal. If it bleeds off its the master :P

He rekons 1 in 50 or so come brand new that are stuffed, so be aware, you can get a dud newie....

You had a dud newy did you not?

I learnt how to drive with no clutch in my first car. The TE Cortina's used to have a surclip to adjust the clutch cable, the damn things would always flick off leaving no clutch. :rofl:

Your clutch was bleeding off like mine.

Its farked, I'm telling you now.

I held my foot slightly on your clutch pedal and it went half way to the floor. :rofl:

Exactly what mine WAS doing.. Now it goes straight to the floor and makes nice squishy sounds.

Having a clutch that isn't bled correctly will cause you to crunch gears and not dissengage the clutch completely.

Clutch master done. :P

I didn't have time to fiddle with the pedal box today as I buggered around removing the little silly box that locate between the master and the slave cylinder.

I simply straightened the end section of the old metal piping then rebent it so that it mated up with the rubber hose that then runs to the slave cylinder.

The clutch seriously feels so much better now. Seriously I tell you. :D

I swear it feels lighter, more springy and much more progressive. Previously it was very bitey now it is much nicer to drive.

Ignore the rust mark on the floor pan. Thats an old heater that went pop under the inlet manifold. The camera really shows it up as orange. I should clean it up really.

  • 1 month later...

The forum change over broke a lot of links, using the WHITE PAGES would have got it for you, but here's the detials anyway:

ALL CLUTCH & BRAKE SERVICE PTY LTD

3 Pinn St St Marys 5042 (08) 8277 8122

Email [email protected]

Internet www.allclutchandbrake.com.au

Edited by Oosh

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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