Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The 1070 hp figure was done during tuning by Sub Zero and is real but the Autosalon dyno only went up to 200kph  :chairshot

Plus the fact that the gearbox blew up didnt leave much room for improvement.

That's all the dyno graph posted goes to... I fail to see your point... :confused:

630Kw != 1070HP

P.S. Nothing wrong with nitrous IMHO... :)

I should have been more clear sorry

The hp read of 1070 was made at Sub Zero on their dyno.

Not at the Autosaslon dyno.

If he had of scored 1070 on Saturday they would have smashed the record.

The dyno at autosalon only read up until 200kph.

thats why the cars with power glides got really bad hp scores.

Nothing wrong with nos just pointing out the fact that Sub Zero will Put nos on anything.

At that sort of power what could possibly be put on the car for 1500 more dollars?

Not easy power just more :rofl:

No one said with a $1500 budget there is anything else that would add “more power”. The point was, people are using the nitrous kits as easy power.

Each to their own I spose.

nos is good but i think for dyno roller comps they should just use the engine power produced and have a totally different section for the nos cars. then it would be easier to judge the cars on there actually horse power not just bolt on a nos bottle for extra kw/hp

No one said with a $1500 budget there is anything else that would add “more power”. The point was, people are using the nitrous kits as easy power.

Each to their own I spose.

I disagree as adding nitrous is EXACTLY the same as bolting on a bigger turbo.

When someone bolts on a bigger turbo, do you stand there and say "yeah but lets see what the engine produces with a turbo half it's size or let's take the turbo off completely and just see what the engine does without any boost". I would think not. Using nitrous is effectively only adding more oxygen to the process and there is a fine art to setting it up correctly. If someone wants to run nitrous, fine....they will pay the price for cheap horsepower if they have not set both it and the engine up properly. It takes skill and a very tough engine to run it safely at high levels as nitrous has nearly 2.5 times the air content of normal air which increases the risk of detonation and engine failure. Just think of it as adding another turbo for 10 seconds.

I disagree as adding nitrous is EXACTLY the same as bolting on a bigger turbo.

When someone bolts on a bigger turbo, do you stand there and say "yeah but lets see what the engine produces with a turbo half it's size or let's take the turbo off completely and just see what the engine does without any boost". I would think not. Using nitrous is effectively only adding more oxygen to the process and there is a fine art to setting it up correctly. If someone wants to run nitrous, fine....they will pay the price for cheap horsepower if they have not set both it and the engine up properly. It takes skill and a very tough engine to run it safely at high levels as nitrous has nearly 2.5 times the air content of normal air which increases the risk of detonation and engine failure. Just think of it as adding another turbo for 10 seconds.

couldnt have said it better myself

good point. but u cant run nos on the street but u can run a bigger turbo. i wasnt uping any1, i just reckon they should have 2 different areas in the roller comps. maybe im wrong but it would give a more true indication of what people are goin to see in a car driving on the street or at the strip. just my 2c.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...