Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight - $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75261-importing-yourself/
Share on other sites

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone here has ever imported themself, what hassles are involved, and whether or not its actually worth it in then end.

I am thinking about upgrading to a R34 GT-T or maybe GT-V (think thats the 4dr turbo), but cant seem to find many later model 4drs around for sale. Most are 98 model autos.

The costs i am aware of are (please correct if i am wrong):

prices all approx

Freight -  $1200

Duty tax - 10%

Customs - $500

GST - 10%

Compliance - $3500

Stamp Duty - 2%

Tyres - Depends

Another consideration is paying a broker to sort out the paperwork (about $1000).

Any info of this topic is appreciated thanx.

I did this a few months ago

Purchase price + about 80,000-100,000 jpy to de-rego , store and transport the car to the docks in japan .

+10% import duty on all the above

+ about 1800 -2000 aud for freight , customs and q/t .

+ 10% gst on all the above .

+ LCT ( in your case you won't have to pay it )

Thats your landed price .

Allow $4000 minimum for compliance and import approval ( for r34 ) + brakes if needed + removal of any mods .

Then all you have to pay is rego costs ( rego , ctp , number plates and stamp duty )

Stamp duty in nsw is 3% for the first $46 k and 5% for anything above that

You will pay stamp duty on any car you buy , new or used , local or import so thats not an extra expense .

If you need more info p.m if you like , i can put you in touch with a person in Japan , he will find a car for you bid at auction and do all the work to export it , there is no need to pay an agent in Aus $1000 .

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah man, i reakon it is worth it, my new toy lands tomorrow, have had no hassles whatsoever with customs or anything like that...cheaper than getting the equivalent over here! but i did get in under the 15 year rule so compliance for me is cheaper...still, should be worthwile for you too!

mine left on the 28th may, gets here tomorrow, nice and fast, only thing i found expensive was the cost of containers at the moment as I diddn't want to stick it on RORO, but yeah, other than that very happy with the results so far...

I went over to japan and found the car myself then got my exporter client over there to stick it in a container for me, sent a customs broker the paperwork over here and voila! it gets here tomorrow, no hassles :rofl: oh, and as far as i have been told by the broker, as long as you can stick it in a buisness name, it is easy to get a broker here and you get a discount on the fees or something over doing it in your name...

only other costly part i can think of is the compliance when it gets here and if you wanted an agent in japan to find the car you want, but by the look of it, that topic has been covered by wrxhoon above...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...