Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

The lease is up on my B4 in so its time to find someone to buy it.

Its a standard MY02 B4, Blue Mica, 5spd manual, located in Melbourne. For those of you who dont know what a B4 is I will elaborate

- 2.0lt 190kw Twin Turbo (sequential VF32 & VF33)

- Recaro Blue / Black Leather interior

- Mcintosh CD Stereo

- 17" BBS Alloys

Car was a Subaru Australia executive car for its first 7,000 kms at which time I bought it, so I guess you could call me its first 'real' owner. While I have had the car I have had the following upgrades performed.

- Uprated Discs (DBA drilled & heat treated) and pads (RB74 and COMP-2) from RaceBrakes.

- Front Whiteline Strut brace

- Rear Cusco Strut brace

- Front and rear Whiteline Swaybars

- Whiteline Anti-Camber Kit

Car has 75,000 on drivetrain and 2,500 on the new engine. To cut a long story short Subaru have replaced the entire engine (and turbos) with brand new items ex-japan. I have the list of things replaced if anyone really wants to see it. Car has complete Subaru Glen Waverley service history. I have almost exclusively ran it on BP Ultimate, with an occasional tank of Synergy 8000 if BP is not available. Car has never had anything less than 98 RON fuel.

Still has 2 years of 'Subaru Assured' warranty remaining. Subaru Assured is backed by Subaru Australia but is not the same as a new car warranty. It is certainly better than those useless 'dealership warranties'. Engine has 2 years of its own from Subaru Australia.

It's a good clean example of an australian delivered B4 with rego until March 06

So if you want a car that will not give you an ounce of trouble yet still perform admirably then a B4 may be a wise move.

Cost: $32,000 ovno

Any questions or queries etc then please let me know.

Cheers,

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76516-fs-02-subaru-liberty-b4/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
vf34 ey?

When I wrote that I was guessing because I was too lazy to look it up.. i have subsequently looked it up and its actually VF33 and VF32 .. sorry for any confusion ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...