Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

near new in box!!

awsome phone, this as in good condition with charger, hands free, software and original metal box it came in.

sell for $550 ono- outright ready to take any sim card!!!

will try get pics 2nite, leave your email address if interested!!

cheers people

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/
Share on other sites

cant u buy these for 525 new from telstra shop?

i dunno i thought u could

sorry for ruining the post

just got a quote from telstra shop then- $883 outright, so why not save yaself a few hundred

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1412178
Share on other sites

I've seen these phones on sale in independent stores that aren't rip-offs for mid-$500's outright.

Buying a phone from a Telstra store is like buying computer gear from Harvey Norman or Dick Smith.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1412736
Share on other sites

Yes as i found out from my first search result. From melbournemobiles.com.au they sell this model for $599. But it is his phone, and he can sell it for whatever price he wants. That being said, in my eyes it may be a tad over priced... reason for sale?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1412832
Share on other sites

No-one said he wasn't allowed to sell it for $1,000,000,000,000.

We're just giving him some helpful advice on how likely he is to sell it when people can get it brand new, with receipts and fewer warranty hassles, from a shop.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1412947
Share on other sites

checked out the site, 599 is true for this phone new

so ill let it go for 450, which is 150 less then what the website is selling it for new.

just selling it for a mate who doesnt have the net at home, he got a new fone, one of those sony ericsons with 1.3 megapixel cameras, sik fone, but this motorola one is cool

in good condition, couple of little nicks but u save yaself 150 from the new thing so it is a good buy

wasent aware that you could get them for that price new? could be legit or could be dodgy dont know?

have 2 offers of 400, so unless anyone can do better ill be selling it in the next couple of days

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1413229
Share on other sites

$599 is still expensive. You can get them brand new here in Adelaide for $525 - $530 from an authorised mobile store complete with tax invoice.

I could say the phone is $300 at my 'local store' with warranty, reciepts and got a free coffee included as well. But no-one is going to belive me untill i showed some proof of this price. So how about you stop whinging about the market price being too expensive and just buy the freakin phone if you want it so badly. In all honestly who cares if its a $70 difference between market prices, if you want it you;ll pay any price for it. So save everyone else the hassle of reading your trivial posts.

I remember replying to your posts in another mobile phone thread recently. Seems its a common trend of yours. Do you actually buy any of these phones....?

This is not a personal dig, this is just a rant about people whinging about prices of goods, when they dont actually propose anything useful in their post. He has lowered his price sufficiently, so be done with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1413874
Share on other sites

It's my right to whinge about anything I like just as it is your right to reply to my post. I will the phone when the price is right but in the meantime I will continue posting up the cheapest price so everyone knows how much they go for.

My hero. Buy it new if you are the finder of such great prices! You're one of those annoying people that piss off retail sales people i bet. "But i can get it $10 cheaper at this other shop, blah blah blah" WELL GO AND BUY IT THERE THEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1413891
Share on other sites

My hero. Buy it new if you are the finder of such great prices! You're one of those annoying people that piss off retail sales people i bet. "But i can get it $10 cheaper at this other shop, blah blah blah" WELL GO AND BUY IT THERE THEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you don't do that then you're getting ripped off.

A mate of mine recently bought a Navman iCN 510. He walked in to a Dick Smith and started haggling with them. Got $50 off the unit. He then went to a Harvey Norman, told them about the price from DSE, who beat that price by $30. He went back to the first DSE and told them about Harveys, offering them a last bit on it, and they lopped off another $10.

I wouldn't have thought that DSE or Harvey Norman would bargain (but with their bullshit markup why not, I suppose), but since the satnav units aren't moving the retail sales guys are getting more freedom to manouvre in order to get rid of stock. You just need to know how to shop, and I'd be quite happy to give some guy a little shit, if he's getting paid to take it, so I can save $90.

On that note, who ever pays retail on their car gear? I can't remember the last time anyone paid sticker price on their tyres, or mods, etc.

Last time I checked, this was a community and the guys on here look out for each other. If someone's selling second hand goods for well above retail, you'd hope that members of your community would let you know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1414426
Share on other sites

d-d: cheers bro

encore: your a dick, i wouldnt sell you the fone if you offered me 10 million bucks for it

scathing: i know what the fone was worth when my mate got it and had a fair idea wat it was worth before trying to sell it, i cant keep track of the price of this fone at every store in the world!!!

400 is fair enough, and as for your story about ya mate...........wata sting bag!!!!!!

this thread has been bullshit, ive been offered 400 by a few people so close the thread please mods im finished with this sale and there has been enough spaming for anyones likeing!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77158-motorola-razr-v3/#findComment-1414938
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...