Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hylomar aero grade gasket joining compound RRP Price (AUD): $50.00

Non hardening and non setting. Unlimited assembly time. Vibration resistant. Allows metal to metal contact. Resistant to combustion products, water, engine coolant, petroleum, lubricating oils, kerosene and fluorocarbon refrigerants. Seals surface imperfections. Withstands rapid variations in temperature. Flame, dust and moisture proofing properties 100gm Water and oil pumps, instrument inspection covers, cylinder heads and sumps. Coating pre-formed gaskets, weatherproofing motors and outdoor high voltage circult breakers. Inlet manifolds, timing case covers, oil pump joints, gearbox and transmission components, thread sealing. Gas turbines, water cooled generator, turbo vacum systems and any machined surface.

they come in 100g tubes like a big tube of tooth paste i purchaced a box in from a mate in england. i am selling fifteen tubes may be more depends on how much i use he he @ $15 free postage this stuff is definatly top of the line thats a clear huge saving

price drop price drop

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77277-aero-grade-gasket-joining-compound/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry dude these tubes are $15.00 deliverd RRP is $50.00 check it out if you don't believe me there is only a couple of places that distribute it in aus, and it's for that price of $50.00

so $15.00 is a dead set bargan

the stuff you buy for $13.92 at super crap is shit if you want to buy that go ahead it it will just let you down in the long run.

Haha I meant are you willing to sell me one tube for $13.92? Reason being thats exactly what I've only got left in my account. Don't get payed until next thursday and don't really feel like going out to the bank just to deposit $1.08 LOL.

inasnt yes metal to metal seals are the best for this compound i have done my rocker covers and have had no leaks at all

sorry ongsta it would be unfair for other people who have purchased from me at $15 a tube

isnt this the same as loctite #3 (or otherwise known as aviation cement)

loctite #3 is way cheaper and comes with a brush applicator

used on my rear main and on plenum no leaks

definatly not this stuff has an unlimited assembly time loctite has a hour set time pain in the arse for when you lost a bolt or something also having a set time reduces its life span

this stuff is approved by and meets rolls royce (spelling) stringent tests it is also approved for use in all defence airforces around the world definatly top of the line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...