Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone have a Heat gun I can borrow for a day?

Trying to make home made Cold Air Induction on my N/A car...

I just need to bent few PVA pipes, I mean PVC pripes...heheh :D

also Open to suggestions...

because I dont have Turbo... the hole where Stock intercooler piping goes is closed off, so I am plan to cut hole and feed a pvc pipe and close rest of pod filter and O2 censor with soem clark rubber heat sheild!

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7775-a-heat-gun/
Share on other sites

Ok having trouble with all the materials...

went to clarks rubber and burnnings to get some inspiration for the CAI...

I have found 3meter silver coil vent induction pipe but they cost too much and let alone dont need 3 metere/$21.60.

Found nice silver sheet of aluminium $18.23 or some thing like that, quite suitable...

found foam with silver lining but it also pretty fragile, not sure how it will hold with all the heats from the engine...

my best option is to go with aluminium sheet for the box and for piping...

saw few PVC pipes but hey are booldy heavy and there is not many choice to shoose from, they are rock hard and not sure how malleble they are with heat gun... but I shall try!

anyway thanks for reading... you polly think I am stingie one but yeah I am student with no $$$ :lol:

BTW can anyone show me how to take off the Front stock spoiler for series one?!?

cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7775-a-heat-gun/#findComment-116536
Share on other sites

Joe, the air duct stuff from bunnings is bloody expensive, try an airconditioning supply place (sorry forgot the name of where I went, but it only cost me $11 instead of $21). That foam stuff from clarks seems ok in my car, haven't had probs yet and you have to buy it by the lineal metre, so enough for 2 partitions.

Maybe someone will go halves on both and save you even more dollars (sorry I already gave my leftovers away)

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7775-a-heat-gun/#findComment-116540
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...