Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is pretty urgent fellas, front seal is leaking on my semi stuffed rb20 box. So why waste money fixing the weak link, and just replace it with the RB25. Cost wise isnt too bad.

But basically, I can go read all the RB25 boxes in to R32s but it dont mean squat if the cefiro is that much different. So if anyone knows if its the same please let me know asap.

If its no and you know what is needed please list it. If its yes, well shes apples.

Thainks, and once again, this is URGENT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77955-rb25-box-on-to-rb20-cef/
Share on other sites

why not just use an r32 box!!

Because it broke... And then a new one, will break, and so on and so on. Its basically wasting money. Everything bolts on clutch wise etc, its just cross members and tailshaft.

the 25 box will go in the ceffy behind the rb20, but u will need to sort out

clutch slave cylinder(they is different) and tailshaft(front tailshaft yoke is different and the rb25 box is shorter)

Do you know whats needed with the slave cylinder at all??? Is it as simple as using a RB25 one? Or does the rb20 one need modding? If so what? And yeah, I knew about the tailshaft, thats pretty much a non issue.

yeah u need an rb25 slave cylinder, the mounting holes are different

Ahh ok, cool pretty simple. What about cross member if you know? Im guessing it needs custom anyway, if so, non issue. And Id guess speedo cable is gtr, same as r32 gtst conversions use?

speedo cable is a good question, cefiro=manual speedo pickup

rb25 gearbox=digital speedo pickup

so u need to change the speedo sensor in the box to a manual pickup or change your speedo to digital(i did the later cost small fortune), apparently a sensor from a navara is suppossed to fit

  • 3 months later...

Yeah, try not to go for a 1 peice tailshaft tho, its a pain in the neck.

Fits in fine, works good. We just reused my orginal cross member, and moved it back, and added a plate to it or something.

Id doubt you will get on in by saturday tho. Cause you need to cut down the tailshaft etc.

I'll do a proper post tonite.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...