Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by kabab

Gues what.......

He sold the rotor !!!!

As for the matter at hand REV's efforts have proven its possible, we just need to see it happen with a few other similar spec'd R33's to know its not a freak car.

Well I'll be damned, he sold it! It was just starting to get interesting too.

Remember though REV's car still has a few *important* minor mod's.

  • Exhaust
  • Turbosmart bleed valve - minor but a mod none the less :P
  • Upgrade clutch & light flywheel combo
  • S-AFC II - dunno if this contributed to xtra power for his 13.4 run or not? REV?

Lightflywheel improve's you acceleration through 1st and second especially.

Which is very important. :P

Had a little squirt with a Maloo 255LS1 Manual Last years model Ute the other morning.

It was actually slower much slower than I expected. Out accelerated even in high rev's through third. Their second gear is also a little slow. They launch so damn well though he grabbed 1/2 a car length in front then by second i was already side by side, third i was sailing past.

He started it, and was 40+. He drove like a boy racer.

Originally posted by 2fardown

Yes you are right...I run Simex 225's and they grip like mad.

I thought that Simex [tyres] were ok and not that cheap :confused: Mine are the 235 / 45 variety on stock 17x7.5 wheels...The model number is sm8200 i think.

Would b nice to find out about this slicks / elf 33 drag time!

I run 2x 225 50' 16's Simex on the front, the rears at the moment are Baraums which were $149 each but are really chirpy tyres and don't grip. I'm waiting for them to die.

The Simex tyres were $138 each which is pretty cheap compared to the Bridgestone, Yoko' etc price of $200+

13.4 is a 'can do' with some important mods, you won't get the stockie going like that un-fortunately cause of the exhaust if nothing else.

My 205's , even tho simex, are way under sized for road rubber let alone the drags.

Didn't do a thing with the s-afc II except watch the pretty blue screen for 'knocking'. I only installed it the night before and since the instructions are all in jap i was not prepared to touch the A/F settings, I'll leave it for the dyno some time in the next month.

Note: * that I did a bunch of 13.5's and a 13.6 that night, it's no fluke.

* Simex (read cheap'o) 205's, no octane booster , stock ecu , stock intercooler, 10psi.

[quote[i think mid 13's are possible may be a 13.4 babs is on the mark you dont need a bigger cooler unless you are fitting a bigger turbo in reality merli made reasoanble power witha stock cooler.

meggala

nice to see I"m not talking sh1t

great effort rev210 with some tuning and boost watch the times tumble also dont forget the motorplex is one of the fastest drag strips in the southern hemishpere. ithere is at least a .3 sec advantage there

meggala

  • 3 months later...
Originally posted by kabab

Actually i remember andrew trap speeds where higher then mine around 98mph ???

Your forgetting the ELF :( thats bound to give you abit more power..

I guess there is only one way to find out :)

By low 13's i mean 13.3 - 13.0

just reading thru old threads, can someone plz explain to me exactly how elf or anyother fuel/oct booster can make any difference speed wise at all in a standard car? how are you going to advance the timing kabab?

Many people think that using high octane fuel will automatically give a large or significant power increase. This is not neccessarily true. High octane fuel has a slower flame front propagation during combustion which helps prevent knock when used in high compression engines. Since stock Jap engines are designed to run on 103 octane petrol they will not have high enough combustion pressures or temperatures to take full advantage of a 124 octane fuel. In fact using too high an octane fuel can actually reduce power because the fuel burns too slowly to produce peak combustion pressure high in the power stroke. To get back on thread I doubt that using Elf racing fuel would give much of a boost to a stock engine. So getting into 13's with a stocker on Elf is unlikely.

You keep talking about this Elf stuff as if its gonna turn a stock RB25 into a huge beast!

And what your suggesting, tuning the car to run on elf, is not something that youd do just for one run. Whats the point in saying i did 13.x on elf, when your cars not tuned for it for daily use? And even if you tuned it, without a programmable computer you cant do a whole lot to "optimise it".

And anyway, its my understanding that a higher octane fuel protects against detonation. It burns slower, which is why you can up the timing to get a bit more power. But the real gain would be seen by upping the BOOST, which your not gonna do coz then it wont be stock.

And yeah, what BigAl said!

Well IMO doing stuff like fitting <18psi Nitto 555R drag tyres and all the little tricks like removing the spacespacer and stuff is kinda cheating a bit.

It's the same as dyno runs. I'm sure some of you use octane booster and up the boost but is it all kosher that way?

To run that magic 13.4 is a far bit of work in itself and it almosts turns the car into 'not a daily driver'.

T.

Sold a Computer case to a bloke today that had a TF Cortina.

Pretty wild cam to say the least. You don't even year V8's idling the way this thing idled.

Sounded absolutly awesome. Especially for a six.

Apparently he claims he ran a 13.2 1/4 with sticky tyres on the rear.

Apparently it makes power to 6000rpm which is pretty good considering the standard 250 six's peak power is at 3700rpm.

Still in Awe with the sound of the think actually.

Notice I said a lot of Apparentlys :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...