Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there,

i just wanted to ask what kind of power you were making and with what mods. id like to know if the rb20det will compete with say rb25det and a sr20det? coz im interested in all 3 motors for my next car. 180sx, r32 gts-s or r33 gts-t

thank you.

ps. also asked because you dont see many r32 gts-t in the ET times running under 13secs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79179-r32-rb20det-owners/
Share on other sites

Having had 2 SR20DET powered Silvias I can tell you the RB is more then a match is pretty much all aspects, they all had the usual filter, boost, exhaust, nothing serious.

The RB sounds much nicer and you don't feel like your killing it at 6000rpm like the SR.

The RB25 is obviously gonna make more power as its a bigger motor but the car weighs more so its not really a comparison anyway. If you wanna compare, then compare the RB20 and the sr20

I would choose the RB20 over the SR personally....

Most people put RB25/26s in R32s rather then do up the RB20 when it comes to drags.

Throw enough money at it and anything will go well:)

The RB20s best feature is that as a std motor they are tuff and if something happens to let go then they are dirt cheap. But depends on what power you are chasing...and what times. I have only drag raced my car twice, and with a crappy 60ft time of 2.2 seconds as A) i cant drive and B) dont want to break the g'box, my best is a 12.9 @114mph. Thats on a completely std motor wit upgraded turbo and ecu + other bits & pieces

sr20det has a lot better low-end than rb20det. off-boost torque on the rb20 is really bad.

but yeah, rb20det much more revvy than sr. and really loves the high rpm. it feels fine at 7000-8000rpm, while sr20det's will hate it! Also stock turbo on sr20det is steel wheel and more laggy. but ceramic wheel in rb20det turbo's are prone to crapping itself if you boost it too high.

i use rb20det and i'm planning on leaving it that way, but i'm not chasing huge power figures, working more on suspension & drivetrain mods than outright power.

but yeah, main factor for me is rb20det's are cheap!! but i haven't blown an engine yet. it's been holding up quite well seeing as i've been drifting it 4/7 days each week for the last month or so... (stock boost still though...)

my rb20 has these mods,

3 or 4 inch exhaust (stock dump pipe)

straight through cat

pod filter

9psi

it got 194rwhp, around 145rwkw. the dyno dude said the engine was in pretty good condition and recommended a bleed valve and 14psi.. i declined, wanting an intercooler first.

']what would be a reason theres barely any in the ET times under 13's in this site?

Why bring a knife to a gun fight. If your chasign good power and good times, why would you limit yourslef to 2.0L unless there are some sort of clase rules that stipulate you must use 2.0L or std capacity.

If there was an SR25 or SR30 then i can promise you there wouldnt be any quick SR20s either. That said with the right rubber and clutch i reckon an internally std RB20 can go damn close to a high 11 at about 117-118mph.

And the SR cost x 3 as much as thats what ppl can get for them, a 4 cylinder engine (all alloy) is always going to have more appeal to ppl looking to do transplants then a cast iron inline 6. Imagine an Escort, Datto, Cortina etc etc with an RB20?!?!?!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...