Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I keep hearing that the "V" design is inherently stronger than the inline design.

Can anyone explain to me why?

let's talk 6 cylinder engine here being SAU and all.

say an RB26 (if it were in an NA setup - and there have been some)

compared to the engine in the 350Z's... what is it VQ35 or am I making up engine names..

anyway, why are "V" engines "inherently" stronger than inline?

How are they stronger?

at what stage (power wise) does this strength become a factor?

:cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79465-v-vs-inline/
Share on other sites

You can make a inline 6 stronger than a V6 or vise versa - just add more metal in the right spot and you will have a stronger engine.

Note: I'm talking about the the block only and for the same materials, casting techniques, etc, etc

Probably more intersting question to ask which is stronger for a given capacity, stroke and block weight.

The V block could prolly be made stronger because they can be made far more compact than a inline, although the extra forces induced by the unbalanced V configuration may outweigh the advantages.

If I was putting my money on one or the other I would go V6.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79465-v-vs-inline/#findComment-1449483
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...