Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me why RB20's need an "AP engineering" version of the power FC. I'd guess that it would have something to do with the RB20 having less conventional system software for the FC to interface with or something.

Can someone in the know please shed some light on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79812-why-do-rb20s-need-an-ap-eng-pfc/
Share on other sites

ummm, how to answer this...

The reason that you need the AP Engineering version is because Apexi themselves don't specifically make a PFC to suit the RB20. AFAIK AP Engineering take one of the std PFCs and modify it so it will work with the RB20.

Isnt most of it just loom tho? And then they wack a base map on it?

Because not all that many (up until recently) other aftermarket ECU makers have had plug in systems, you just buy it and get someone to wire it up, then either dl someone else tune to get to the dyno, or guess it, or tow it.

Or so I thought anyway.

I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me why RB20's need an "AP engineering" version of the power FC. I'd guess that it would have something to do with the RB20 having less conventional system software for the FC to interface with or something.

Can someone in the know please shed some light on this?

There is ZERO technical reason, its all about demand, development cost and money. Apexi thought there was not enough demand for R32GTST Power FC's, well not enough for Apexi's long production runs. Consequently they didn't develop the software or make them. Enough people wanted them (for a small run) so Apexi got AP Engineering to make them (they are good at small run, special stuff) but as a result the price was double that of an R32GTR Power FC.

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...