Jump to content
SAU Community

Why do RB20's need an AP eng PFC?

hayai32

By hayai32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

hayai32 Collaborator

hayai32

Posted
Posted

I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me why RB20's need an "AP engineering" version of the power FC. I'd guess that it would have something to do with the RB20 having less conventional system software for the FC to interface with or something.

Can someone in the know please shed some light on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79812-why-do-rb20s-need-an-ap-eng-pfc/
Share on other sites
browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted

ummm, how to answer this...

The reason that you need the AP Engineering version is because Apexi themselves don't specifically make a PFC to suit the RB20. AFAIK AP Engineering take one of the std PFCs and modify it so it will work with the RB20.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Isnt most of it just loom tho? And then they wack a base map on it?

Because not all that many (up until recently) other aftermarket ECU makers have had plug in systems, you just buy it and get someone to wire it up, then either dl someone else tune to get to the dyno, or guess it, or tow it.

Or so I thought anyway.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me why RB20's need an "AP engineering" version of the power FC. I'd guess that it would have something to do with the RB20 having less conventional system software for the FC to interface with or something.

Can someone in the know please shed some light on this?

There is ZERO technical reason, its all about demand, development cost and money. Apexi thought there was not enough demand for R32GTST Power FC's, well not enough for Apexi's long production runs. Consequently they didn't develop the software or make them. Enough people wanted them (for a small run) so Apexi got AP Engineering to make them (they are good at small run, special stuff) but as a result the price was double that of an R32GTR Power FC.

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...