Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i spoke to bret over a year ago,he left the workshop of subzero a couple of years back and moved to gilmour developments in qld,turns out he was a bit shonky and brett was having dramas with the set up,the car itself went to the fabricators and got a chop up(3/4 chassis)nice big tyre was fitted and a bright yellow paint job,this car became a dedicated race car,he was so pissed off by the wait and trouble he was going to on sell the car to me once finished but havent heard from him in a year.

as for mick stanic he left his familys sub zero business and moved to adelaide to tillbrook performance shop as the head mechanic,though i have heard many stories about mick over the years which would steer me clear from him,but each to there own i guess.

i did have pics of the car which ill try to find and might i add its was looking hot,i ended up buying parts of try-09s of brett and its a shame why he got treated the way he does,he is very busy travelling up and down the cost working with his father in some type of earth drilling business.

theres a website he gave me which i will try to dig up,stay tuned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79977-try09s08s07s/#findComment-1455914
Share on other sites

so its yellow now aye?

:confused:

omy08s u gotta vl drag car dont ya??? hows that goin?

car is almost ready just the little things you dont think about which im sure everyone misses out,like wiring,braided lines etc....im positive itll hit the dyno in about 4-6 weks then to the track it goes,if it runs into the 8s on its first meet ill be more than happy then we take it from there.....

as for try7s it is now bright bright yellow and looks great and is for sale if anyone is keen on a 7 second package in a 3/4 chassis skyline with an rb26 combo,all you have to do is find out where the hell brett is these days,until then good day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79977-try09s08s07s/#findComment-1456912
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...