Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas... I have been toying with the idea of starting another project... I've currently got an rb25det installed in my s14 with a few goodies... but I'm wanting something as sort of a side project (i'm about as far as i want to go with the rb25) ... I'm interested in the 3.0 the rb30 has to offer...

Ideally ... this block will sit in my garage on an engine stand and be tore down... bored, honed, new pistons, rods, crank balanced, new oilpump, new water pump... you get the idea... After i was finished with the block i would like to slap an rb26 head on top for various reasons (solid lifters/intake mani, etc...)

My only problem is.... I live in the states.... can't exactly find a VLcommadore anywhere around here.... I'm interested in locating a rb30eT (i'd like it to already have the oil feed/return and water feed/return lines tapped....

Who can i contact in order to have an rb30 shortblock shipped to the states?

thanks

-andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80035-looking-for-rb30-block/
Share on other sites

oddly enough, i just removed an RB30 series 2 engine (having all the required oil and water galleries already tapped, just blocked with bolts) from my daily driver. it spun a bearing on number 2 and the crank will need linishing, but apart from that it's all good. i also happen to work for a freight company, so i can obtain a quote for me to ship it to the states if you would like? which city are you in?

i would ship the thing for you for the cost of shipping + $50 AUD if you're interested. the only thing i need off the engine is the timing belt tensioner (for my RB30DET) but they are the same as the RB25 idlers which you have easy access to.

pm me if you're interested,

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...