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ringgear stopper??

Godzilla32

By Godzilla32,
in General Maintenance

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Robbo Enthusiast

Robbo

Posted
Posted

I used loctite on mine, as I couldnt click it off at 330ft/lb. I sparingly used loctite supernut lock which is the lower grade blue type.

I'd advise against using stud lock (red) or the retaining compound (green). I've seen bolts permanently attached with these grades. Once I saw a coarse threaded bolt that wasn't that much larger than the balancer bolt which we couldnt undo. Not with a 3/4" rattle gun, not with an 1" rattle gun and not even with an 1" rattle gun that used an 1" air line!!!

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

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Posted

Note to self: Only use BLUE loctite!!

I really dont see a point in replacing the crank seal as its not leaking and would be more trouble than its worth IMO.. I am however doing the camseals and half moons, replacing the tensioner and possibly the bolt for the tensioner and the stud for the idler. The idler itself feels very smooth so im thinking not to bother replacing it... Any input?

Cheers,

Deren

MARRIOTT Apprentice

MARRIOTT

Posted
Posted
Note to self: Only use BLUE loctite!!

I really dont see a point in replacing the crank seal as its not leaking and would be more trouble than its worth IMO.. I am however doing the camseals and half moons, replacing the tensioner and possibly the bolt for the tensioner and the stud for the idler. The idler itself feels very smooth so im thinking not to bother replacing it... Any input?

Cheers,

Deren

You're better off replacing the idler. You'll kick yourself if you have to pull the whole thing down again in 10000k's if the idler gets noisy. They're only about $70 - do it now or suffer the pain.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Just posting these details as the search on this forum just sux now. Can't go past a couple of months.

BSC Motion Technology

3/ 1968 Hume Hwy Campbellfield VIC 3061

ph: (03) 9357 7515

Idler: NSK 56TB 2801 B01

Tensioner: NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806

Now I spoke to Steve when I got mine there and they were only about $120 for the pair. They apparently had hundreds in the warehouse.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

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Posted

Is it really important to torque the crank pulley bolt to exactly 446-466Nm?? Thats a huge amount of torque and the wrench needed would be very expensive. Im planning to buy a smaller one for lighter jobs but i cant even find some where to higher one like that. Someone said they just did it up as tight as they could, and it was ok. I'd prefer to torque it to the right tension but sounds as though it will be difficult...

Deren

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Is it really important to torque the crank pulley bolt to exactly 446-466Nm?? Thats a huge amount of torque and the wrench needed would be very expensive. Im planning to buy a smaller one for lighter jobs but i cant even find some where to higher one like that. Someone said they just did it up as tight as they could, and it was ok. I'd prefer to torque it to the right tension but sounds as though it will be difficult...

Deren

Yea you need a 3/4 drive torque wrench , i have one but i'm in Sydney otherwise i would lent it to you .

As long as you do it up very tight with a big bar it should be o.k. , i always do them up with a torque wrench though .

  • 3 weeks later...
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
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Posted

Recently put the crank pulley bolt back in and did it up real tight, now i cant undo it to make changes! I didnt think id need to undo it so i did it as tight as i could. I've already broken about 3-4 breaker bars!! Can anyone help me to get this bastard undone?? :(

Thanks guys,

Deren :(

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Deren, maybe call lubemobile and tell them to bring a 3/4 rattlegun. Has to be worth paying for that. I have a heavy duty pulley pin spanner I made that should hold the load as well to make it easier and maybe you could buy a 3/4 breaker and socket.

I'd come and help but still recovering from back surgery.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Deren, maybe call lubemobile and tell them to bring a 3/4 rattlegun. Has to be worth paying for that. I have a heavy duty pulley pin spanner I made that should hold the load as well to make it easier and maybe you could buy a 3/4 breaker and socket.

I'd come and help but still recovering from back surgery.

Thanks again for the reply Geoff. Would a rattle gun fit in there with only the radiator removed?

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