Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there :cool:

I'm just new here, something for me to do on the holidays :) looking forward to reading a lot and catching up on local happenings, I have had an r33 gts , 97, silver, for just over a year, *see the attached picture*. I live in the SE Suburbs, near the clayton area, I've seen a loooot of other skylines around there :P so i hope i can recognise some of them soon!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/
Share on other sites

Hey dex!

welcome to the SAU buddy. I dont think ive seen ya round at all yet. i dont live that far from u, i live in Dingley which is like at the end of westal rd and springvale type area... or Centre Dandenong Rd past the moorabbin aiport.

pics of mine are on the webpage, link in the sig :)

hope to see u come along to some meets and cruises!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-117847
Share on other sites

Hey thanks guys, looks like a great forum to me. I saw that post about the cruise on the 10th, bummer, im on holiday in perth until the 14th :-P I'll catch the next event though, definitely. Oh and its a non-turbo gts, the 97 model with the dual airbags.

I might give a word of warning about T.G.S Performance from whom i bought the car, recently i had a low speed front impact (not my fault either) the result of which being that i had to get a new front kit and headlights fitted, mainly due to the poor fitting of the front spoiler. as it turned out, when T.G.S had fitted the previous front after they had imported it, they REMOVED the front impact bar to get it to fit, thus giving fark all front impact diffusion in the incedence of a major accident. The good blokes at Blackburn Motor Body had to build a new one and fit it before putting the new kit on as it was totally unsafe, and i would never have realised without having that little smash :-P On the upside, its all fixed and has a new kit which looks and is fitted much better than before, all on the other drivers insurance! She'll be looking first before cornering in the future!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-117988
Share on other sites

Oh Inark,

Just had a look at a roadmap, i guess you are just south of me, i live a few streets west of monash uni. I'll keep an eye out for a black r32 (sweet photos btw) in the future! have you ever noticed that at the junction of ferntree gully and blackburn, you'll normally see 2 or 3 skylines? lol its weird

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-117997
Share on other sites

haha at new front bar @ her cost :) thats all good!!!

yeah ive been past there a couple of times and come across a few that way :cool: the more the merrier.

holiday in perth? why? it not hot enough for u here in melb? 19degrees is as good as it gets!! lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-118006
Share on other sites

yeah, her karma must have been paying back 100:1 that day :-)

well, i'd rather be in queensland or something, but my family's there, and they pay for the tickets :-P if its free i'll take it.

on a side note, my brother here in perth wants to sell his r33, do you think i should tell him to advertise it here in the perth forum??

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-118076
Share on other sites

Originally posted by MZNISMO

welcome to the forums :)

im sure u will enjoy ur stay

hehe

im from dandy so not too far from you either :)

:D

Hehe, Amb'z highly sought after quickies are only a suburb or two away from you.

Anyways, welcome, and I've seen your car b4, about time u got on the forums :( I'll be cruisin to dandy tonight at 8ish for a mate's 21st if anyone wants to try n dent my car so I can do my rear spoiler on insurance...

hehe welcome again...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-118486
Share on other sites

Originally posted by funkymonkey

Hehe, Amb'z highly sought after quickies are only a suburb or two away from you.

Anyways, welcome, and I've seen your car b4, about time u got on the forums :P I'll be cruisin to dandy tonight at 8ish for a mate's 21st if anyone wants to try n dent my car so I can do my rear spoiler on insurance...

hehe welcome again...

arghhhhhhhhhhh :eek:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8101-hi-just-registered/#findComment-119095
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...