Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Handling

SlowGTS-t
 Share

Recommended Posts

SlowGTS-t Contributor

SlowGTS-t

Posted
Posted

My car was starting to handle really slopplily. Turns out that it needed new castor rod bushes and upper arm bushes. So got those done. (Standard upper arms and poly castor bushes)

Then had a wheel alignment done. The car just feels really weird now. Seems to turn right a lot better than it turns left . Does this at low speed but worse at high speed. Seems to be an issue on turn in only. ONce I'm in a turn, it seems ok. ALso pulls left on the straight. (You'd think that it would turn left better if it pulled left but that's not the case!)

The steering wheel isnt quite straight either. Have taken it back twice already but they cant seem to get the wheel straight. Also has 1 deg extra camber on the left hand side.

Anyone got any ideas? I tried taking the steering wheel off to centre it but the splines dont line up with dead centre. Been under the car, no play in suspension at all, cant see anything unusual. Only thing left to do is measure all the various bits and pieces I suppose and I guess take it to another wheel alignment place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81107-strange-handling/
Share on other sites
boston Apprentice

boston

Posted
Posted

Sounds like your castor is uneven left to right..

if you are running more castor on the right side than the left the car will have a tendancy to pull to the left.. but it will turn in a little better to the right..

hope you got adjustable castor bushes.. all that needs to be done is wind a little more onto the left one.. or if its maxed out on the left you might take some off of the right..

there is more to it than this but in a nutshell this is it

hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81107-strange-handling/#findComment-1474214
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...