Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im wondering if anyone will be able to help me out at all.

On the weekend I will be installing a Power FC into my car (R33 S1). Has anyone got a ignition map they have used in their R33 and are happy with, and can I please get a copy of it, this way I have a good starting point.

I was after a map that is on a car that has a bigger then standard turbo running at least 12psi, as this is a setup I will be going for.

Regards,

Cristian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81371-ignition-map-for-r33-with-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Im wondering if anyone will be able to help me out at all.

On the weekend I will be installing a Power FC into my car (R33 S1). Has anyone got a ignition map they have used in their R33 and are happy with, and can I please get a copy of it, this way I have a good starting point.

I was after a map that is on a car that has a bigger then standard turbo running at least 12psi, as this is a setup I will be going for.

Regards,

Cristian

Umm you'll have to get it tuned. Even if someone had the exact same setup as you their map won't necessarily work for you.

Every car is different, the only area it will be very similiar is the light load areas of the map.

Do a quick map trace and see what load point it drops to.

Go to that area of the map and drop ignition timing to around 15degree's. This will prevent it pinging. Just to be safe. From memory you will be running insane ignition timing at WOT, not good for a high comp rb25det. :)

Drive it and get it tuned. :P

Will there be ignitoin map in the Power FC to start with?

If not, how can I do a "map trace"

I thought that If i could get a already proved map, I can adjust to what suits the car best, I thought this way awas better then re-inventing the wheel.

It will be tuned professionally.

I didnt realise that there was a map to start with, as when you do most other aftermarket ECU's for cars, you have to start from sracth.

That's why the PFC is so popular, all the base stuff is loaded, plug it in and turn the key. Drive it gently to get tuned.:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...