Jump to content
SAU Community

Trying to clear a defect, 2 weeks to go

Jordan

By Jordan,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jordan Rising Star

Jordan

Posted
Posted

Hey peoples. Last month I got a defect for having a pod filter in the car.

Let it go for so long because I thought I would be a simple thing to fix. Nothing major, I didnt even get a yellow sticker as it was apparently just a minor category, but now that I have been calling around now it appears that because the copper put a tick in the box for "Full Inspection" when I take it to a AUVIS (Authorised Unregistered Vehicle Inspection Station for those who didnt know) to be cleared they will still be obliged to go over the whole car and ping me for whatever they find.

I'm a little pee'd off because the copper assured me all they would do later is check to make sure I had a box fitted like what is written in the report when he was writing it out hence why I didnt complain so much at the time.

Now there are 2 routes I can go with this.

Plan A) get the car engineered. For $460 incl GST I can get the Pod, Wheels, Guages exhaust, etc officially legalised. Problem is that to Engineer the car properly they will want me to get an official RTA Emissions test down at their Botany facility because they see my engine as being modified thanks to the FMIC, normally they would just do a drive-by Decibel test.

Kinda dont want to to that since I have a racing cat in there at the moment. By that I mean a bit of pipe with 2 flanges at both ends and the temp probe fitting so it hooks back into the ECU. I would need to replace that at more cost (Unless I can find a replacement 2nd hand) since the exhaust shops I have talked to dont have ones with the temp fittings, and will need to just use a universal one and get it modified to take the temp probe at a cost of $320. Then I can tell the RTA and they will cancel the Defect and I can take the Defect Notice and find the issueing officer and tell him he can take it back and shove it up his @ss, then go home feeling that much better.

As you can see its starting to get expensive.

Plan B) Replace my Pod and Cat and let the AUVIS inspect me and hope they dont find anything else.

So either way I need to source a factory Airbox and a standard Cat.

If anyone has some they can sell for cheap-cheap, or better still let me use for a while, then I can implement Plan B then I return them later after visiting the AUVIS.

If you are in the Sydney area and can help me then I will come to you to pickup and also to return just to make it easier, I dont mind driving out to central coast (or equiv. distance) if its necessary.

Oh, and before I forget and I get flamed, its for a R33 Series-I GTS-t.

Jordan Rising Star

Jordan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got a few leads on Airboxes and stuff already, thanks guys. Still worried about my Cat, no one seems to have one lying around or that they can seperate for a me for a few weeks :P

d00dz, want a racing pipe for a few weeks? Car will go hard and blow muchos flames :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...