Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better off with the stock air box & put in a sports filter (like the K&N) and open it up underneath of the box to cold air using some ducting,

unless you are going to seal of the new air pod from the heat which then is no better than an air box anyway. you dont want your car sucking hot air at any cost.

Regards

Damqik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119028
Share on other sites

i disagree.... i put on a simota pod filter and it runs much better than the std box... not going to box it off just yet... no real need just now... pod cost me 40odd and the adaptor cost about 35 or vice versa...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119049
Share on other sites

Agree with the pod, but for the extra cost of doing it yourself, I found that a partition was very, very worthwhile. Off boost response is noticably increased, especially when the engine is warm.

The partition cost me less than $25, It was just metal backed foam. It was very easy to work as a pair of scissors and a stanley knife or razor is all you need. Get hold of a couple of manila folders to make the template. I took it really slow as I wanted a good job (dont like doing things twice), and it took a total of 2 hours.

And I had enough left over material to make another partition, so if you know anyone else interested, go halves.

Just my 0.02

Steve

EDIT: as far as mods go, perhaps you would be better off waiting and getting your exhaust done first, as the stock one is very restrictive. You would have a far more noticable increase in hp even by just replacing your rear muffler, and you just get more the further forward you go. You must be able to get the air out before you think about getting more in:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119175
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Steve

Agree with the pod, but for the extra cost of doing it yourself, I found that a partition was very, very worthwhile.  Off boost response is noticably increased, especially when the engine is warm.  

The partition cost me less than $25, It was just metal backed foam.  It was very easy to work as a pair of scissors and a stanley knife or razor is all you need.  Get hold of a couple of manila folders to make the template.  I took it really slow as I wanted a good job (dont like doing things twice), and it took a total of 2 hours.

And I had enough left over material to make another partition, so if you know anyone else interested, go halves.

Just my 0.02

Steve

EDIT: as far as mods go, perhaps you would be better off waiting and getting your exhaust done first, as the stock one is very restrictive.  You would have a far more noticable increase in hp even by just replacing your rear muffler, and you just get more the further forward you go.  You must be able to get the air out before you think about getting more in:)

i am going to make one probably within the next month... but as it is already running ok (have an exhaust on it already) it hasnt been top priority as ive been busy as...

do u have the template still? if so can u scan it or repeat the shape in PSP or PS and post it??

or do u have a 33?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119385
Share on other sites

I have an R33, plus my 2 year old decided he needed to make a jigsaw out of the template - Sometimes I think I'll never learn to keep things out of harms way:(

It really isnt too difficult, I was putting it off 'cos I thought it would be a painful job but once I got going I really regretted not doing it earlier.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119388
Share on other sites

My car came with a pod but to pass a VIC Roads inspection I had to borrow an airbox, the car felt flat and lifeless, no throttle responsiveness at all, so to all you guys still using standard box GET RID OF IT you don't know what your missing.

I agree with putting a heat shield around the pod too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119473
Share on other sites

Guest Red32sky

Thanks for the imput fellers, I havnt had a chance to get back on the computer for abit so sorry for the no reply! I agree with getting the exhaust first but im abit short on cash and my ex girlfriends buying me the pod so why say no? I think I might do the partition idea doesnt sound too hard. But hopefully ill get the exhaust soon!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119775
Share on other sites

Originally posted by turbomad

My car came with a pod but to pass a VIC Roads inspection I had to borrow an airbox, the car felt flat and lifeless, no throttle responsiveness at all, so to all you guys still using standard box GET RID OF IT you don't know what your missing.

I agree with putting a heat shield around the pod too.

I've run an easy 13.8 with the stock airbox, they aren't that bad.

Even Mines kept the airbox on their GTRs.

Comparisons that are dyno tested have some merit, but then again dyno is not going to produce the airflow conditions on the road so its a little tricky.

The pipe from the airflow meter to the turbo is however crappy flowing and replacing it with a nice metal one is a good idea. I have yet to do this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-119922
Share on other sites

Originally posted by turbomad

Well REV210 all I can say is try a pod and see if you like it, I've tried both and I like the way the car drove with the Pod way better.

The pod might be something to try if I get a requirement for larger airflow. At the levels of power I am making the 800 odd cfm is plenty and less noisy.

Sound effects have a placebo effect on the sensation of speed. If you like the sound thats all well and good, is it actually making more power as a result, maybe...and maybe not if you have an aftermarket panel.

Something else to consider is that in the real world, changes to the air intake make bugger all hp gains (maybe 2-3rwhp) on a stock engined skyline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8209-cheap-airpod/#findComment-120048
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...