Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who wants to give me a hand installing my Bosch 040??

Having had a good read of the tutorials around on installing bosch fuel pumps, i've decided my pathetic mechanical prowess is probably not up to the job :confused: . So...

If anyone has some decent experience installing these into R33 GTS-t's, and woud be willing to install the pump with my limited help :D, i'd be more than happy to reimburse them.

I'm about 45 mins west of Melbourne, so would prefer either my house or somewhere on the west side.

If you're interested, please pm me

Cheers!

James

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82090-040-pump-install/
Share on other sites

yeah i realise this, but it's not just the pump i'm getting done.

seeing as though i will be taking the car there regardless, i'm much happier to leave it all to a professional and get the guarantee that it will be done right.

with a lot of things, you can be so worried about saving a little now that you may end up spending more later. i'd rather pay the bit extra for quality and peace of mind.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82090-040-pump-install/#findComment-1490014
Share on other sites

generally a fuel pressure reg isn't needed - as the stock reg can cope. They are mainly used to make it easier to tune the car as they make the fuel pressure curve more linear (so i've been told). Having said that, you may benefit from a re-tune (if you have an aftermarket computer.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82090-040-pump-install/#findComment-1490430
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...