Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have the following parts for sale from a R32 GTS4 Skyline, all prices plus freight.

Parts are in Brisbane, :

Left hand headlight - bug eye version, perfect condition - $80 ono..REDUCED

Front driveshafts left and right- SOLD

Front propellor shaft (connects gearbox to front diff) - $50 ono..REDUCED

Front subframe - $115 ono. REDUCED

Front swaybar - 21 mm, same as GTR - $65 ono.

Front hubs - with curved upper link, no discs. - $150 pair ono.REDUCED

Steering rack - in good condition, tierods feel good. - $220 ono.SOLD

Rear subframe , subframe bushes removed!, this is the most expensive/time consuming part done already. ready for new bushes - nismo/Noltec. - $195 ono.REDUCED

R32 GTS 4 RB20DET - silver top, from GTS4. block, complete head, inlet manifold, injectors & coilpacks, good condition. Was intended for RB24 rebuild. Spare incomplete head with only half valves - good to practice head grind on. - $475 ono. SOLD

R32 GTS 4 Gearbox, 5 spd manual with transfer case. In good condition. - $575 ono. SOLD

Stephen

P.S. suspension parts/light/driveshafts are the same as a GTR.

Edited by gts4diehard

front driveshafts look in good condition. cv joints feel okay, when rotating thru full range of movements by hand. looks to be original cv boots on shafts. splines are straight. bearing in front hubs feel good, so dont think the car they come off has done too many kms. Shafts are leftovers from a front cut.

Stephen

same dimensionally, they look exactly the same but not they do not have the same ratios inside, due to the larger amount of torque that gtr has. could give an acceleration improvement I would think...

Stephen

mate, the incomplete head, does it have lifters in it, and what sort of condition are they in? ie. not rattling or leaking down?

would you be willing to sell them seperatly, and for how much.

Cheers

Ive got a stuffed rb20det head with everything, bar the exhaust camshaft, and 2 exhaust valves....

lemme know what u want for it by pm, otherwise it goes in the bin :cheers:

does the front sway bar bolt on to r32 gts-t ?

im also lookin for a 32 gtr rear sway bar if anyone has one.

thanks ;)

dorry not sure about that. the bars on gsts and gts4 attach differently to front hubs, but they may be the same bar with diff end fittings which could be removed and swapped.

Stephen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...