Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Series 1 Skyline, metallic gunmetal grey, RB25DET Automatic, 128000Kms.

BN sideskirts, BN rear bar, 400R front bar, Vented Fibreglass bonnet, 4 door chrome headlights, 2x 18" WORK Euroline mags, Tisonics alarm and immoboliser.

Whiteline lowered springs, 5" Supercat Canon, GReddy turbo timer, engine standard, Omori white face boost gauge

Pioneer DEH6550 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" speakers, Pioneer 12" sub and Alpine amp.

Always serviced every 5,000kms, well maintained and clean example.

Does not come with 19s for this price!!! Car is getting dyno tested and serviced this week.

DYNO RESULTS

Power - 146.3kW@166KPH

Torque - 366.8NM@134KPH

at max 6PSI in third gear 1:1

REDUCED: $14900neg. Call 0402 581 896 for more details.

1048168.jpg

1048161.jpg

1048164.jpg

1048162.jpg

Edited by DRFT33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82428-fs-r33-skyline-gtst-in-adelaide/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

bump, now back on the market and now comes with 18inch Work Eurolines on the rear, but still comes with the full set of 19" Koya Inox rims. Need to sell soon, gettin a S14 so no need for two cars!

Edited by DRFT33

The engine is standard besides running 7psi all the time (solenoid bypass), i wouldn't know exactly how many kWs at the wheels, i've never dyno'd it, but you can do a search and find out the specs for a standard one and that'd give you a rough idea.

Alot of people say autos are crap etc, but there isn't enough noticeable difference between the power difference. You could buy a shift kit (about $400) and that would be a good upgrade. Depends on what you're after really.

Its an Auto:(

you'll be surprised mate. auto's are as good if not better than manuals - no blowns clutches for starters.

ive seen this car around, very nice looking. good luck with the sale mate.

1993 Series 1 Skyline, metallic gunmetal grey, RB25DET Automatic, 123000Kms.

19inch KOYA INOX mags, BN sideskirts, BN rear bar, 400R front bar, Vented Fibreglass bonnet, 4 door chrome headlights, 2x 18" WORK Euroline mags, Tisonics alarm and immoboliser.

Whiteline lowered springs, 5" Supercat Canon (not on photos), GReddy turbo timer, engine standard, Omori white face boost gauge

Pioneer DEH6550 headunit, Pioneer 6.5" speakers, Pioneer 12" sub and Alpine amp.

Always serviced every 5,000kms, new waterpump, belts, brakes. Well maintained and clean example.

REDUCED: $16500neg. Call 0402 581 896 for more details.

driverrear.jpg

IMGP1702.jpg

IMGP1719.jpg

Hey dude,

My mate's looking at buying a Skyline. How would you feel about 15K cash??

if he's serious about it, give me a buzz or PM me and he can come and check it out, road test etc. and we'll go from there (assuming you're from adelaide). i've gotta couple of people coming to look at it so best offer.

Edited by DRFT33
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

sorry no because i don't have the stock bonnet.

Car was dyno tested today

Power - 146.3kW@166KPH

Torque - 366.8NM@134KPH

at max 6PSI in third gear 1:1

pretty good for a stock standard engine, air/fuel mixtures were good and will be able to easily handle more boost with suitable mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...