Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno gts-t vspec, perhaps get into the 12s or something most rb25s have problems doing that. There is like what? 1 here doing 12s? with all those blue screens? and only 1 12 second pass? in a r33 rb25?

Mines computer is just a map, Actually im even unsure what it has cut wise, i need to get it read. Stock computer would probably be better minus speed and boost cut.

RB20LabWagon,

I totally agree with you, but I think all of us here in WA need to start spending more money on our cars, cause the other states keep kicking our arse in terms of times.

By mid-through this year I hope to be consistantly in the mid-12's, this is with another $5-6K thrown at the car. Hope to see you down the plex on Wednesday to see how 290rwhp goes on the R32, should be very close to a 12 I would guess.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

RB20LabWagon,

I totally agree with you, but I think all of us here in WA need to start spending more money on our cars, cause the other states keep kicking our arse in terms of times.

By mid-through this year I hope to be consistantly in the mid-12's, this is with another $5-6K thrown at the car. Hope to see you down the plex on Wednesday to see how 290rwhp goes on the R32, should be very close to a 12 I would guess.

See'ya :burnout:

Its a r31 oz spec sillhuette. it should do a 12, if it will launch itself insted of lunching itself. 5-6k ? ouch. My car isnt even worth that much.

Sorry about getting car wrong, can't see for looking, I just assumed. The $5-6K is for engine internals, turbo and exhaust manifold, I've already spent alot more than that. I am trying to make a reliable package, therefore not going for too much power too soon.

See'ya:burnout:

R31 Power,

Gotta agree with RB20LagWagon, she ain't no stunner, I'm sure it doesn't even get washed, but when she pulls up to the lights and wants to race flick your indicators on and pretend like you have to turn.:lol:

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I was just driving into work and while on my drive, I went to accelerate and noticed the car would sputter/hesitate and I’d hear a few pops from the exhaust before it started going faster. Then I also noticed that when I push my clutch in, the car would die. This all started happening today. Any ideas?
    • That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.
    • ^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.
    • Sounds pretty awesome. I recommend creating a new build thread and posting all your goodness in there.
×
×
  • Create New...