Purchasing Help/advice

[dezz]

Hey guys

So i went and checked out this car i'm looking at, for the second time (first time was just a quick look, but was at night, and it was dirty etc)

so today it had been washed, and it was daytime...

I had the checklist off this forum all printed and ready to go, and left it at home!

so i was just trying to remember some stuff.

i checked out the interior, and its in great conditon, apart from the ripped gear boot and hand brake cover, which ive seen a lot on these forums in just a few days...no big deal

skyline mats always used, and the carpets underneath look immaculate...seats look great as well. steering wheel has some wear, but not much, so that looks about right

roughly 122000kms, and the numbers line up, so as far as i can tell it looks legit.

exterior looks good....has a small dint on the rear left quarter, and a slight scratch there.... tiny rust mark where the paint has been scratched up near the spoiler on the rear right hand side...but very small... couldnt see any rust in the door jambs or in the boot area, but only had a quick look.....door seals etc look good.

asked if it has accident history, he said when it was in hapan it had a right front incident...so i checked the front bumper, and it sits lower (under the headlights) on the drivers side than the passenger side....is that a major thing in people's opinion?

i took a photo of the gap and the normal side, so i'll post that up in a sec.

started the engine...started rather easily, and sounded ok (im not mr mechanical, but it sounded normal...) started off loudish, then once it warmed up a little it idled lower and was quieter...still nice and smooth

went round the back to check out the exhaust....at idle there wasn't any smoke, just the normal...like an extremely small amount which you'd expect from an exhaust pipe..

then got him to give it a rev, and it started to blow a bit of smoke....not like thick black, not white, from memory i'd say grey? what are peoples thoughts on that? is it to do with being cold? could it indicate an engine problem?

thats about it really...the paint itself looks pretty good, and the front bumper seems to match almost perfectly (in my eyes at least) so if it was damaged, it looks pretty well matched.

blue build blate wasn't engraved so that seems fine....but i have a few questions to ask you guys that know more about it...

i downloaded the skyline book off here, and on page 10 or 11 it has all the color codes, and transmission codes etc....

as far as i know, this car is supposed to be an R33 GTS-T 95 model. the plate said RB25DET 2498, so that seems right...then the transmission part of the plate said FS5R30A RC41

now in the book it says that the FS5R30A is for the 5 speed, but for the GTS its FS5W7....so which should an R33 GTS-T have?

next question...the color code said KN6 K

now in the skyline book, that doesn't match any of the codes under the R33 list...so i was wondering if anyone knows what this means?

sorry for the long post guys, i just dont wanna buy something that i'll regret later on....so i'm trying to check into this car thoroughly, and you guys are the 1's that know all about em

thanks in advance

[dezz]

some of the pics....hard to make out because they are taken at close range and the flash comes off the bumper...

but here's the gap

and here's the passenger side under the headlight

2nd 1 isnt the best photo, but im sure you guys have all seen an R33 with a normal sitting bumper

[dezz]

any info/advice guys?!

dont wanna go in blind!

[fLipKnot]

Hey man, where are you located? maybe can recommend a few skyline shops to you so you can go get this car checked out

[dezz]

Hey man, where are you located? maybe can recommend a few skyline shops to you so you can go get this car checked out

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

im in hoppers crossing. but the car is located in wantirna area.

if anyone knows of a good mechanic to get the car looked at, thats the next step i'm at...so if anyone knows a good place that knows skylines that'd help

[dezz]

guys? any replies and advice?

would really be greatly appreciated!

[dezz]

alright, so it looks like im on my own with this 1...no one seems to have any advice

how bout if i break it into simple dot point questions as to what i'm afteR?

* Car has apparently had an incident on the front right bumper. the bumper underneath the headlights sits a bit lower than it does on the passenger side...dioes anyone see this as a major problem? or is it something that just needs some adjusting to make it sit right again?

*car blew some greyish smoke when being revved. (car was cold, and had just been washed) condensation smoke? anyone think its otherwise? pointing to an engine related problem at all?

*nissan build plate said the transmission was "FS5R308A RC41". is that correct for a 1995 manual GTS-T?

the book says that the FS5R30A is for the 5 speed, but for the GTS its FS5W7....so which should an R33 GTS-T have?

*the color code said KN6 K, which isnt 1 of the color codes listed in the "skyline book". the guy at nissan said the K at the end is for the interior, so what color does K represent?

car has a black interior, but i think thats a series 2 interior.

KN6...he said something about it showing up as a nissan color, but i dont understand why its not listed in the skyline book? car looks like a dark grey to me...

[gts25t4door]

I recently crashed my line a few weeks ago ran up the ass of a commodore, it still handles sweet. So take it for a test drive and see if it steers straight, look for un-even tyre wear and look to see if the bumper has been screwed in using the origional holes in the front end. Check the radiator and air-con condensor and the intercooler. As for the smoke, get it to running temp and give it a few revscheck for smoke then, may i ask how much they are asking for the car?

Sorry i have no idea what the numbers mean but I hope some of this helps.

cheers

Chris

[dezz]

alrighty, i've got the car booked in for a mechanical check and compression test on monday...

i'm sure the mechanic will know, but what kind of number should i be hoping for on the compression test?

[sl33ek]

Hi Madwob

I was in the same position as you earlier this year. looks like you got most of the right checks done so sounds like you'll be fine.

Dont forget to do the basics like online revs check:

http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

I also do what gtst4door said and do a steering check. Drive up to around 60k's and hour and let go of the steering wheel and see if it stays straight.

Also the wheels say alot, check the rear tyres and see if the wear is consistent with the fronts. It will generally be more worn but if its really worn compared to the fronts it means the owner likes to do burnouts and likes a to thrash.

Check that all the electrics work, like wipers, aerial, the side mirrors fold. When I bought mine the cd player didnt work and this was the only thing I didnt check!

Doesnt hurt to ask what comes with the car too, if its aftermarket rims ask if hes got stockies, or any spare engine parts or body parts - take it all! I got a few things like a genuine Trust wing thrown in.

One last thing, I might get flamed for this but when you sign the transfer of rego papers where you declare the agreed sale value, ask if he will agree to fill in a lower sale figure so when you go to the rta and pay for the rego name change they will tax you less (I think the tax is 3% of sale value)

Good luck with it dude

[Links]

Has it already been registered or is it a fresh import?

Check that it has a jack and tool kit - small thing but important, also full fuel tank of premium - small things but add up to $200 if you don't have them..

Damage isn't a huge issue - is it the light - check that the 2 mount points are broken as mine are - if they aren't you can adjust it to lower it. If it's not the light it's probably the front bar being replaced.

Check that it isn't missing when you drive it (power lag from 4,500 - 5,000rpm - the boost will drop)..

Check that the solenoid is still working - goes from 5psi to 8psi from 4,500 rpm..

Check it revs freely without any nasty sounds.. check that it idles well - for atleast 15minutes i'd say.. turn it off and restart it straight away.

I got mine checked by NRMA - he checked the suspension and control arms as well.. check that nothing is bent.. don't be afraid to get under the car, get the mechanic to get it up on a hoist and check it..

Should cost about $50 for a compression test..

Overall - make sure your happy with it.. if in doubt with anything - don't buy it..

That's about the majority of it.. make sure you do atleast 100+ kmph in it - check that there are no seals not working and creating annoying noises while you drive..

Aircon works - heating works.. headlights work.. brake lights work, blinkers work correctly..

Good luck.. hopes that helps..

Links

[Links]

Gengis - good point.. I got given 2 x sales receopts.. one for RTA.. one for me.. makes 3% a lot better..

[dezz]

thanks for the replies guys...ill just ask you some questions on what you've said so i can be clear on it all

Doesnt hurt to ask what comes with the car too, if its aftermarket rims ask if hes got stockies, or any spare engine parts or body parts - take it all! I got a few things like a genuine Trust wing thrown in.

yep, it can come with the 18's if i want to take them, but has stockies on it at the moment. When i'm closer to buying it (if i do) i'll check the tread on the 18's as well. I'm not the BIGGEST fan of the chosen 18's, but they do look better than stockies obviously. so if i can get those thrown in for a bit extra, and the rubber on them is good enough, i'll take them just until i choose my own rims, at which point i'd sell them to re-coup some of the cost of the new 1's.

One last thing, I might get flamed for this but when you sign the transfer of rego papers where you declare the agreed sale value, ask if he will agree to fill in a lower sale figure so when you go to the rta and pay for the rego name change they will tax you less (I think the tax is 3% of sale value)

I did this with my first car...got like $2k put on the transfer paper so it didnt cost me so much in fees...I was thinking of doing the same with this next car, but whats the go? can they question it if they think its too cheap? or can it be like, say im paying $16k for a car, and the transfer says $5-$10k, can i say i bought it off a mate and he gave it to me cheap as or is it safer to just knock off a few grand?

whats that revs site? the link doesnt seem to work for me. also, i'm in VIC, so does whatever it is apply to me?

Has it already been registered or is it a fresh import?

current owner has had it for about 3 years....bought it off the importer apparently.

Check that it has a jack and tool kit - small thing but important, also full fuel tank of premium - small things but add up to $200 if you don't have them..

great points...i havent taken the spare out yet, but i did see the tyre iron, ill check for the rest of the tool kit (what should be there?)

as for the fuel, great point, but how can I be sure the seller puts premium in it even if he does give me a full tank?

Damage isn't a huge issue - is it the light - check that the 2 mount points are broken as mine are - if they aren't you can adjust it to lower it. If it's not the light it's probably the front bar being replaced.

as in the pics above, its just the front bar sitting with a gap under the headlights, on the drivers side...(difference in the gap on the passenger side). he told me it has had an accident on the front right, but was nothing major (this will be checked). the bumper "sags" on the drivers side, leaving a gap under the light...if its not chassis damage etc, as long as the bumper can be made to sit right ill be happy.

Check that it isn't missing when you drive it (power lag from 4,500 - 5,000rpm - the boost will drop)..

missing? im new to the import scene (turbos etc) and im not very mechanically minded...can you explain what i should look for with this part a bit easier? should the boost drop, or is it supposed to maintain the same level?

Check that the solenoid is still working - goes from 5psi to 8psi from 4,500 rpm.

how is this checked? do i just drive it over 4500RPM and make sure that the boost goes up? would this be something they'd check in the mechanical inspection im getting done?

Check it revs freely without any nasty sounds.. check that it idles well - for atleast 15minutes i'd say.. turn it off and restart it straight away.

i've had it revved a few times in the 2 times ive gone to see it, and it sounds like its ok (keeping in mind im not very mechanical) but it just seems right. smooth idle (even when it was stone cold) and seemed to rev ok as well. but will check it out more

don't be afraid to get under the car, get the mechanic to get it up on a hoist and check it..

yep, i've spoken to the mechanic and he's confident he can identify any major smash repairs etc, so ill save a trip to the panel beater there.

Should cost about $50 for a compression test..

been quoted about $60 for the mechanical inspection, and he said he'll compression test it as well. sounds like a decent deal

i apologise for the long post guys, but i appreciate your input and advice, and i will definitely have it all in mind.

any replies to the above questions will also be appreciated a lot

than

[sl33ek]

Yes REVs is for NSW, Victoria and I think Qld too.

Its an online check. Are you sure that link doesnt work? it does for me. You enter in the Car rego and VIN number and it will tell you:

-If it has money owing on it

-has any traffic fines

-is stolen

Also i think it also tells you if the odometer may have been wound back (but dont quote me on that)

[dezz]

Yes REVs is for NSW, Victoria and I think Qld too.

Its an online check. Are you sure that link doesnt work? it does for me. You enter in the Car rego and VIN number and it will tell you:

-If it has money owing on it

-has any traffic fines

-is stolen

Also i think it also tells you if the odometer may have been wound back (but dont quote me on that)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ah is that what it is, well i've rang vic roads vehicle securities for that stuff...you tell them the rego number, VIN, chassis and engine number etc

car is not under finance, not stolen, etc etc...thanks for that, I will try to get that link working to check it out though

[sl33ek]

Sweet good luck!

[dezz]

Sweet good luck!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

got the revs site working, so i thought i'd check it...

the result says **STATE HAS NO RTA ACCESS**

lol

[sl33ek]

looks like its for NSW checks only, sorry for the bum steer man.

But you did the check already so not to worry!

I read this on the site and thought it covers VIC as well:

"The NSW Register is linked to the Victorian, Queensland and South Australian Registers. NSW operates Register services for the ACT and Northern Territory. A link exists between NSW and WA REVS, however this only provides a warning mechanism to consumers on Western Australian encumbrances"

[dezz]

looks like its for NSW checks only, sorry for the bum steer man.

But you did the check already so not to worry!

I read this on the site and thought it covers VIC as well:

"The NSW Register is linked to the Victorian, Queensland and South Australian Registers. NSW operates Register services for the ACT and Northern Territory.  A link exists between NSW and WA REVS, however this only provides a warning mechanism to consumers on Western Australian encumbrances"

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah no probs man. i thought it would work because it allowed you to select VIC under the drop down box for registration

if anyone knows of a Victorian site for this, i'd be interested. I did try replacing the address with .vic.gov.au but got nothing.

i just wanted to check out what you said about k's being wound back, but i think this car could be considered legit....it has 122,000kms. 95 model so roughly 12,000 per year which is good, but not un believeable...the numbers all line up too which apparently points to legit k's