Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you please advise what the equivalent is of a bosch. I am interested in buying one walbro one......

HP rating, not KW?

Thanks

Edited by BookyVL
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Interested in the pump with delivery for $179. Let me know if you've still got em, and what's involved in installation in an r32 gts-t. I'll probably have to get someone else to fit it, as I'm mechanically useless! ;)

Thanks,

Adrian.

Hi there skyline mates, I just got one today Walbro GSS 341 for my Gtst R33 1998 model. Iam new here in SAU, if i could ask for your expert advice guys,

I'm Not sure if I need to replace or change the stock Fuel regulator if I install this pump, it is necessary to dyno the car after pump is installed?? Will the car running safely if i keep the stock FPR unit after new pump is installed ???

Reason for this is just making that I dont cause any damage to the car.

Some people to told to change Stock FPR to a SARD FPR item as this goes in hand with the pump replacement and must dyno the car afterwards. However, other SpeedShops also advised me that changing just the pump should be fine not necessary to change Stock FPR!

No dramas at all if i have to change Stock FPR, I'm just wanting a confirmation on this point.

I'am now kind of confused who to believe and any advice on this is much appreciated.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...