Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These seats are in excellent condition except for very minor wear on the drivers side outside lower bolster (common), when I got the car 2 years ago they looked new and don't look much different now. I am getting my seats retrimmed to a different colour and it would be a shame to destroy the existing ones if someone wants originals so I'm offering to swap for worn seats (fabric wear and tear only, no other damage) and $. They are grey with the optional light blue insert (not the more common grey/grey). Also have perfect headlining and visors (blue) and door trims with blue insert if that is of interest, same terms as above.

Since I have to nominate a price in accordance with rules, let's say $500 for the seats (prob not worthwhile doing it for less).

If you're interested please email me [email protected] and we can negotiate/send pics etc or call me on 0402 837 117.

I'm in Canberra, pref local or Sydney buyer.

Regards

Edited by Scooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84209-r32-gtr-seats-front-and-rear/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...