Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all I have a standard R33 series 2 and I want to do it up but nothing crazy mostly for some performance and looks. I am planning three mods which I feel are enough for me but I want to make sure they are ok to do without having to get new fuel pump,injectors,ECU etc. I just want to bolt on 3 things and leave everything else stock and keep my car running good and not decrease the longevity of the engine. The mods I am planning on doing are as follows -

1. Full Turbo back exhaust with split dump and GTR Cat.

2. Hybrid Gt Spec FMIC kit

3. Panel air filter

I have been pming one of the members here and he has been great. I just want to see what the rest of the forum has to say. Also another thing I have been told the dreaded heatsoak can come into play when you install an aftermarket Exhaust and FMIC, is this true and would you recommend the application of heat wrap to the Exhaust and FMIC.

I think i covered everything I wanted to know. Any help would be great thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85069-issues-that-i-want-clarified/
Share on other sites

I personally don't like the intercooler piping going back over in front of the engine above the fan but apart from that, what you have described is fine.

As for heat soak, I wouldn't worry about it for your desired level of performance.

yep, sounds about right for first round of mods, go for it :(

is very similar to what was done to my 33 first, should get you a decent gain and set you up for further additions in the future.

car may be a bit less fuel efficient but shouldn't alter reliability

Sweeet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cant wait!! Oh yeh I was doing a little reading and in a hot 4 mag it was saying having a Large FMIC can cause overheating as the radiator is being denied cool air . Whats everyones opinion on that. As my last silly question at what stage do I need to look at Upgrading ECU,Pumps and all the other fun stuff???

I don't like the idea of chopping the fan blades as others have done to clear the intercooler piping. If this is an issue I suggest an electric thermo fan. They work great and don't get in the way.

If you keep the panel filter you can hook up your own cold air intake or do this. Pics below (hopefully). The air intake has been cut-away and some heavy plastic "welded" into place. Looks like it was always like that.

El Bee

post-1570-1124870137.jpgpost-1570-1124870167.jpg

Hey all I have a standard R33 series 2 and I want to do it up but nothing crazy mostly for some performance and looks. I am planning three mods which I feel are enough for me but I want to make sure they are ok to do without having to get new fuel pump,injectors,ECU etc. I just want to bolt on 3 things and leave everything else stock and keep my car running good and not decrease the longevity of the engine. The mods I am planning on doing are as follows -

1. Full Turbo back exhaust with split dump and GTR Cat.

2. Hybrid Gt Spec FMIC kit

3. Panel air filter

I have been pming one of the members here and he has been great. I just want to see what the rest of the forum has to say. Also another thing I have been told the dreaded heatsoak can come into play when you install an aftermarket Exhaust and FMIC, is this true and would you recommend the application of heat wrap to the Exhaust and FMIC.

I think i covered everything I wanted to know. Any help would be great thanks.

exhaust is good, fmic is good, air filter is good as youll keep the standard air box. you should now look into a piggyback system and a boost controller. run it at about 12psi and it should net you around 160-170rwkw which should be a nice and fairly quick streeter.

The piggyback apexi safc should set you back about $400 and $150 to fit and tune and $250 ish for an electronic boost controller. the biggest improvements come from the split dump / hiflow exhaust and the piggyback (if you get one). all in all looks good and should give some nice results fairly cheaply. Have you brought/paid for any of these parts yet?

sorry i missed

> Whats everyones opinion on that. As my last silly question at what stage do I need to look at Upgrading ECU,Pumps and all the other fun stuff???

you don't need to upgrade the ecu but you will certainly benefit from the change. i can't recommend the apexi powerfc enough ($1500 fitted and tuned). the car will drive amazingly better once fitted and you get rid of all the stock limits. stock fuel pump should be ok as long as you dont go over 12psi ish. any more boost pressure will risk the turbo and could lean it out also if the pump can't keep up.

you may find the stock clutch will start to slip once you do these mods however (i did anyway).

-= piggyback vs replacement ecu =-

-= apexi safc =-

price 550

pro cheap, good bang per buck

cons only alters air/fuel, limited tuning

-= apexi powerfc =-

price 1500

pro full engine management, no stock ecu limits, fully tunable

cons expensive

most people just go straight to the powerfc given the cost of the apexi safc and tune and fiddling around you could just go that little bit more and get a much more driveable car. also comes with the standard hand controlller which kicks ass

if you have any questions on the powerfc have a read of:

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm

Edited by paulr33
exhaust is good, fmic is good, air filter is good as youll keep the standard air box. you should now look into a piggyback system and a boost controller. run it at about 12psi and it should net you around 160-170rwkw which should be a nice and fairly quick streeter.

The piggyback apexi safc should set you back about $400 and $150 to fit and tune and $250 ish for an electronic boost controller.  the biggest improvements come from the split dump / hiflow exhaust and the piggyback (if you get one). all in all looks good and should give some nice results fairly cheaply.  Have you brought/paid for any of these parts yet?

No I havent Paid for any of this yet. Im still asking questions to make sure I dont shove it all on my car and then start having probs. Im alittle confused now. Your saying I should look at a piggyback system and boost controller. I was under the impression I wouldnt need a Piggyback system for A FMIC,Exhaust and panel filter or do I need one now???. This is why Im asking so I dont do the wrong thing. Im not intending to go for a full rebuild and make my car as fast as most of you guys. All I want is the exhaust for the sound and power,FMIC cause I love the look of it and power once again and a panel filter for that extra power and induction noise while still using the standard air box. Funny enough Im not interested in boosting the car because by having the exhaust system the turbo is more efficient and I get a couple more PSI anyways and that would be heaps for me so I dont want a boost controller. But do I need a piggyback like the S AFC or power FC for these 3 mods or is the factory ECU capable of dealing with this comfortably?? Ive been told the ECU can "self learn" and detect the new mods and manage them. Thank Again for your responses this is great.

You don't need anything extra. As a matter of fact you don't need anything for a nice quick street car.

Some modifications point to, or actually require, other modifications being done.

Your 3 mods will improve overall performance and the standard ECU will not be phased by them.

El Bee

You don't need anything extra. As a matter of fact you don't need anything for a nice quick street car.

Some modifications point to, or actually require, other modifications being done.

Your 3 mods will improve overall performance and the standard ECU will not be phased by them.

El Bee

Does everyone agree with this??

yes, that would be the consensus

can't say enough about the Hybrid GT FMIC... I was very impressed by the build quality and price and gained a healthy 30rwkw without noticable overheating or lack of throttle response... a good choice for you I think... although if you want limited modification and have a bit of cash to spend you could opt for an ARC FMIC that hooks up to the standard piping = no cutting

Interesting concept, just an FMIC, panel filter and an exhaust. Not much of a power increase there, maybe 20 rwkw at best. The real power increase from a turbo car comes from increasing the boost. There is at least another 25rwkw available from increasing the boost to 10 psi.

I achieved a 30 rwkw increase from the Stagea RB25DET by tuning (DFA) and boost increase (IEBC) with zero mechanical mods. That's why mechanical mods and no tuning seems a strange choice to me.

Whatever floats your boat

:D cheers :)

yes, that would be the consensus

can't say enough about the Hybrid GT FMIC... I was very impressed by the build quality and price and gained a healthy 30rwkw without noticable overheating or lack of throttle response... a good choice for you I think... although if you want limited modification and have a bit of cash to spend you could opt for an ARC FMIC that hooks up to the standard piping = no cutting

Noticable overheating?? I thought the whole point of the FMIC was to decrease heat?? How can you get overheating when adding a FMIC????

Noticable overheating?? I thought the whole point of the FMIC was to decrease heat?? How can you get overheating when adding a FMIC????

Because the cooler restricts airflow to the radiator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...