Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Upon recent inspection i have found that the nuts securing my turbo to manifold have loosened themselves off and the turbo-manifold flange gasket has blown apart. I know this has been a problem for some owners, but was just wondering if anybody has fixed it and prevented it from re-occuring and whether anybody knows the cause of it?

Also would like to know where i can get a flange gasket in Adelaide, ie to repco, etc sell them and how much they are worth.

Also wondering whether anyone runs 0 or 5w synthetic oil as I am leaning towards 10w at the moment due to the age of the RB20

Thanks in advance

Dwayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85103-random-32-gts-t-questions/
Share on other sites

Hey all,

Upon recent inspection i have found that the nuts securing my turbo to manifold have loosened themselves off and the turbo-manifold flange gasket has blown apart. I know this has been a problem for some owners, but was just wondering if anybody has fixed it and prevented it from re-occuring and whether anybody knows the cause of it?

Also would like to know where i can get a flange gasket in Adelaide, ie to repco, etc sell them and how much they are worth.

Also wondering whether anyone runs 0 or 5w synthetic oil as I am leaning towards 10w at the moment due to the age of the RB20

Thanks in advance

Dwayne

Dwayne,

Firstly ( and this is only my opinion ), if you're going to remove the turbo to do the gasket, do yourself a favour and pull the exhaust manifold off the head, replace any damaged / broken studs ( almost every RB seems to break the rear most manifold stud in time ) and the manifold gasket.

As for the nuts holding the turbo on, just make sure that you use new / genuine lock tabs and gasket when putting the turbo back on ( gasket can be re-used a few times if OK ) and all should stay tight. Also make sure the studs are OK. Most of the cars that I've worked on that have had this problem have an old twisted set of lock tabs, are poorly bent / locking or none fitted at all.

Again my opinion, use nissan genuine parts unless something better is available. It's worth spending a little bit extra to get quality ! ( I can't stand people who spend $600 on rice gear but won't spend an extra $10 to buy a quality gaskt !! <_< )

Not touching the oil subject. Sure to cause debate :( I know what I use in my car and those that I service and I'm happy :)

Hope that helps.

Thanks FAT32,

I was going to check the manifold as well as I have heard of them breaking studs etc, which won't be a problem as I am a diesel mechanic myself. I thought I would just check first before checking genuine prices incase Nissan charge something like $50000 for a gasket like they do most other parts. I think i will go with 10w synthetic oil next should be fine

Cheers again

Dwayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...