Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Although the value at which it flashes can be set..

I used to think my knock levels were okay.. then I've seen 90% of people have lower knock readings than me ;) Time for a retune..

i think the knock on the power fc is a load of crap simply because if u go over a bump or pot hole or the road isnt the greatest --(NSW ROADS) the knock level will b all over the place. if u want to be accurate u would get an exhaust temp reading!... my 2cents worth!

i think the knock on the power fc is a load of crap simply because if u go over a bump or pot hole or the road isnt the greatest --(NSW ROADS) the knock level will b all over the place. if u want to be accurate u would get an exhaust temp reading!... my 2cents worth!

I dont think understand how the knock system works ,it's looking for more like harmonics then just bump your a knock to the car. And yes they do work very well or why would a cars like Keir wilsons retain the power fc and hand controller when his running a full metec system (knock detection).

As for knock levels well i think to many people get carried away with the levels as every car is different especially car run fordge pistons and lump cams etc

BUT just concide this that APEXI and i believe nissan don't think there a real issue to you get around 60 knocks as that is when they fire the warning light (not before all they would have set the level lower) all that said most responible tuner will normally stay below 40 or so to give a bit of head room for a bad datch of fuel and or different weather condition to the day of it,s tuning.

pete

I dont think understand how the knock system works ,it's looking for more like harmonics then just bump your a knock to the car. And yes they do work very well or why would a cars like Keir wilsons retain the power fc and hand controller when his running a full metec system (knock detection).

As for knock levels well i think to many people get carried away with the levels as every car is different especially car run fordge pistons and lump cams etc

BUT just concide this that APEXI and i believe nissan  don't think there a real issue to you get around 60 knocks as that is when they fire the warning light (not before all they would have set the level lower) all that said most responible tuner will normally stay below 40 or so to give a bit of head room for a bad datch of fuel and or different weather condition to the day of it,s tuning.

pete

okay i was thinking that knock is the knock inside the engine right as u explained the harmonics well that can change quite rapidly esp if u have hard engine mounts and suspension....is this right ...?

i looked at my knock after going over a bump in the road and it changed...? so in other words it is not an accurate reading at all since it did affect the harmonics in the engine....? and therefor it might not be reading the harmonics in the engine but actually the shock from the bump...?

something on your car is f**ked mate if bumps in the road cause a knock reading. I always monitor knock in my car and it is never affected by road conditions. never. and i will include in this burnouts, drag launches, 4 track days and a fair bit of street driving.

exhaust temp reading is really only a good measure of engine effeciency/AFR and is not as quick to react as a knock meter. they are two completely different things for completely different purposes.

something on your car is f**ked mate if bumps in the road cause a knock reading. I always monitor knock in my car and it is never affected by road conditions. never. and i will include in this burnouts, drag launches, 4 track days and a fair bit of street driving.

exhaust temp reading is really only a good measure of engine effeciency/AFR and is not as quick to react as a knock meter. they are two completely different things for completely different purposes.

ahhaaahah thats a laugh!

so u dont get any knock when going in a pot hole.....?

i find that hard to believe since the vibration is carried through the car...mmmm

but anyways each to your own and ill tell u one thing just had the engine rebuilt ...so its not f**ked!...lololol

im just saying that is not accurate the knock on the power fc.

so u dont get any knock when going in a pot hole.....?

i find that hard to believe since the vibration is carried through the car...mmmm

no i don't unless you are talking about a 3 foot deep cavern (which i can't comment on as i've never driven into one). I have been in potholes before, and a couple of times gone offline a little at turn 4 oran park (big bump there) and yes the knock reading didn't change.

I never said your engine was f**ked i said: "something on your car is f**ked" it may be gearbox problem sending a shock through the crank, or a faulty knock sensor, or knock sensor wiring, or it may just be a shit tune. but i can tell you no car i have ever been in has the knock reading affected by bumps in the road...

no i don't unless you are talking about a 3 foot deep cavern (which i can't comment on as i've never driven into one). I have been in potholes before, and a couple of times gone offline a little at turn 4 oran park (big bump there) and yes the knock reading didn't change.

I never said your engine was f**ked i said: "something on your car is f**ked" it may be gearbox problem sending a shock through the crank, or a faulty knock sensor, or knock sensor wiring, or it may just be a shit tune. but i can tell you no car i have ever been in has the knock reading affected by bumps in the road...

ok ok ok im not going to start answer this if u go over a pot hole or hit the ripple strip at the track and u feel it im sure your engine will feel it....

it may be due to my hard suspension and engine mounts and all the other siffening ..hahah

but im going to argue.

okay i was thinking that knock is the knock inside the engine right as u explained the harmonics well that can change quite rapidly esp if u have hard engine mounts and suspension....is this right ...?

i looked at my knock after going over a bump in the road and it changed...? so in other words it is not an accurate reading at all since it did affect the harmonics in the engine....? and therefor it might not be reading the harmonics in the engine but actually the shock from the bump...?

no that is not right

you need to open your eyes a little and think

If yours is doing this, dont just say the pfc is crap and the knock detection does work may you should be asking why is mine not working (because i can safety tell you that they dont all do what your does) and the knocks and haromics dont have to come from inside the motor as i have seen a exhaust touching the chasis effect knock reading before,(your could be as simple as this).

The knock detection system of the std gtr with apexi pfc is one of the single most helpfull tools in tuning the car a tuner can have(trust me i have know tuned a few).

pete

The reason I asked this question was becuase I have just added a power FC to my GTR and the tune is (out of the box) I was told that they have very advandce timimg so I did a dyno run with results of 11.5 A/F and a knocklevel of around 20.

Was told by a Melbourne PFC tuner that anything around 50 to 60 was bad.But then I was reading in PFC FAQ and it said that anything more than 10 was bad.But it sounds like 10 is a bump steer <_< so all is good B)

Thanks

no that is not right

you need to open your eyes a little and think

If yours is doing this, dont just say the pfc is crap and the knock detection does work may you should be asking why is mine not working (because i can safety tell you that they dont all do what your does) and the knocks and haromics dont have to come from inside the motor as i have seen a exhaust touching the chasis effect knock reading before,(your could be as simple as this).

The knock detection system of the std gtr with apexi pfc is one of the single most helpfull tools in tuning the car a tuner can have(trust me i have know tuned a few).

pete

i found my knock sensor was f**ked sorry guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...