Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a mate that owns a vl and he wants to make it get up and go. I have sugested an rb25det.

How easily do they fit into a vl ?

Why do most people go for the rb20 instead ? cost ?

About how much would the conversion cost ?

I need to know all complications that are involved in this conversion.

Thanks

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8654-rb25det-in-a-vl-comodore/
Share on other sites

Any engine conversion won't be cheap, but i'd opt for rebuilding the rb30 block, and putting an RB25DET head onto it. Ofcourse you'll need some other stuff, it'd be an awesome car afterwards. With a front mount, intake, exhaust and boost you'd have a quick car on your hands.

Guest nismogtsx

Yeah im with Birty....

The old 3/2.5 litre conversion is sweet and pulls heaps of power from out of no where... With a car like that he might beat me...

Anyway the i did the home work a few years ago...

To convert (legeal) a R31 aussie sky to an Rb20det was gonna cost me $3500 (not including brakes, and you must)

To convert to an rb25det was gonna be $5500...

Each motor was not a problem to fit as both would take the same amount of work the cost increase was in the price of a decent half cut... R33 half cuts with everything intact can cost as much as $3500.... As an R32 front cut is about $1500 and there are heaps of them to choose from... Every major city has about 50 of em through out their wreaking yards...

The 3 litre would be great but i think to expensive as he only wants to spend about 6000 to do the conversion including an exhaust system and intercooler. ( he will do all labour himself ).

what would you expect to pay for a low k's rb25 with computer, loom and gearbox ?

what other parts eg crossmember, would be needed?

Thanks

Tim.

im lookin to put a rb25det in my ol vb commy wagon for a daily driver.... something like a fmic, zaust, pod, bc

would a front cut of a r33 be a better idea to buy rather than what some performance places sell as eng, gbox and electrics (comp im guessin)?

any ideas on how easy this would be 2 do?

would have to change the driveshaft and dif 2??

cheers

Justin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...