Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok before anyone asks, no I haven't banged my engine! (touch wood!) I have just been following the arias piston thread and thought that these seem to get the nod on some occations...

so I gather they are made in the USA, what are the prices here like?

87mm seems the go also what about 9 : 1 or 8.5 : 1 ?

I have found some in the states for $970 aussie... complete with rings etc....

ideas :P

Contact Markr34gtr is the man to talk to for CP pistons (very nice product) i used a set from mark on a r34 gtr vspec making 500rwhp plus happily. They run a 0.0035 clearance which is pretty good for forged pistons.

pete

Williams, that's pretty cheap if they are complete with rings.

One thing you need to be careful of with CP pistons, is that you get different rings depending on where you buy the pistons from. CP don't make their own rings.

I know if you order from CP direct, you get a japanese made ring. If you buy a set here, I'm pretty sure you get a US made hastings ring.

Also, the 87mm pistons you buy here are not an off the shelf CP piston, they are a custom piston and use a different ring width to the 86.5mm pistons (and the US 87mm pistons)

By the way Tomei pistons run 0.002" to 0.00225" clearance.

ok the reason I ask is I have found a place in the USA that does RB26 CP pistons... 86.5 and 87mm same as what cousin blitz has got....

I found the price to be rather reasonable, and that is with American rings matched to the pistons....

oh and that price would be me picking them up in LA :huh: but that isnt an issue....

but I am (touch wood a lot!!) not looking at doing this for a while, just curious as to the price diff locally...

ok the second part of my question has been skipped, comp ratio??

pluses and minuses for 8.5 or 9

cheers!

ok the reason I ask is I have found a place in the USA that does RB26 CP pistons... 86.5 and 87mm same as what cousin blitz has got....

I found the price to be rather reasonable, and that is with American rings matched to the pistons....

oh and that price would be me picking them up in LA :( but that isnt an issue....

but I am (touch wood a lot!!) not looking at doing this for a while, just curious as to the price diff locally...

ok the second part of my question has been skipped, comp ratio??

pluses and minuses for 8.5 or 9

cheers!

Hey Ben, I think you'll find the American 87mm pistons will be a different piston to Nicks ones. The Aussie distributor custom orders the 87mm pistons with thinner rings.

Hey Ben, I think you'll find the American 87mm pistons will be a different piston to Nicks ones. The Aussie distributor custom orders the 87mm pistons with thinner rings.

G'day Mik,

I can't say either way regarding the thinner rings, just that the CP pistons are for the RB26 and come in the 4 different options of size and comp....

I have emailed them regarding the rings spec...

Rob82...

no my engine is still in 1 piece... I was just asking out of curiosity....

I should think my engine should be going for sometime yet!!!!

here is the link to the site....

http://www.bnecustoms.com/store/home.php?cat=453

and CP

http://www.cppistons.com/sCompactNEW.htm

ben,

why aren't u speaking to jim @ dart? he recommends arias because of the ring quality (eqiuvalent of nismo rings)

at the end of the day its like asking the question of holden & ford?

it is personal opinion & they both have 4 wheels...

marko

hey mate :(

yeah I had the discussion about either of them a while back, I was just curious about the CP as I don't know much about them, and I know the arias are a good thing....

so how many km to go till u get some real boost? :)

hey mate ;)

yeah I had the discussion about either of them a while back, I was just curious about the CP as I don't know much about them, and I know the arias are a good thing....

so how many km to go till u get some real boost? ;)

Ben,

CRD recommends 1500km whereas Dart recommends 1000km

i may do 1250km :)

I hear you may be moving to Adelaide for good!?

Marko

yep! leaving old Sydney town...

well never say never.... but Adelaide is home, and plenty of GT-R friendly roads over there...

I'll just commute for work ;)

you will need some semi's for that car of yours now surely!!!

Williams, that's pretty cheap if they are complete with rings.

One thing you need to be careful of with CP pistons, is that you get different rings depending on where you buy the pistons from. CP don't make their own rings.

I know if you order from CP direct, you get a japanese made ring. If you buy a set here, I'm pretty sure you get a US made hastings ring.

Also, the 87mm pistons you buy here are not an off the shelf CP piston, they are a custom piston and use a different ring width to the 86.5mm pistons (and the US 87mm pistons)

By the way Tomei pistons run 0.002" to 0.00225" clearance.

ok this back in from the piston supplier....

"The rings are produced by CP Pistons. They are made of tool steel. Tool steel

is harder and stronger than the chromoly ones that everyone else sells. Plus

the tool steel rings seat a lot faster than the chromoly ones.

You also get Chromoly 5100 series pins, and wire lock retainers."

so they are made my CP?

ok this back in from the piston supplier....

"The rings are produced by CP Pistons.  They are made of tool steel.  Tool steel

is harder and stronger than the chromoly ones that everyone else sells.  Plus

the tool steel rings seat a lot faster than the chromoly ones.

You also get Chromoly 5100 series pins, and wire lock retainers."

so they are made my CP?

That is very odd. I was told CP don't make rings. The guys at CP in the states told me that they supply a Jap made ring.

The aussie dist supplies either total seal or hastings (US made rings)

Another weird thing...I always thought chromoly (ie chrome molybdeum (spelling??)) WAS tool steel!! ;)

But in any case, if I were to use CP rings, I would get them custom made to accept OEM rings and OEM tru arc locks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...