Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was just dreaming a little this afternoon, anyone know what kind of a pigyback computer I could use on an fj?

or suggestions or whatever? I looked at the powerfc but the fj wasn't in the list of stuff it would do, or is that just a list of ones you can plug it into and have drive away settings?

thankyou!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87241-fj20-piggyback-computer/
Share on other sites

I think Mines did a modified ECU for DR30's .

Sounds hard but if you could adapt the CAS to an early SR20 signal you may be able to use the SR loom and ecu to run the engine then substitute an Apexi PFC . The early Red Top SR20DET I think still used a distributor so its optical disc may fit . With PFC's you can generally change to higher flowing MAF's , Skyline PFC's can use the Nissan Q45 V8 AFM so it's worth a look .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

With the Power FC you can just chose the airflow meter you are running from a list and it will automatically run it.

They is a HKS F-CON pro on FJ20.COM that may be for sale. Its in canada but.

Edited by sr201600

From what I have seen in the DR's that come up for auction on yahoo Japan, they have a tendecy to run GTI-R looms with the power FC as Gtir still run a dizzy. But if you are going to go to that much effort you might as well go a full aftermarket comp, microtech or haltech or something.

Edited by DR JOSH

Mass can be calculated given MAP, air temp, and cylinder capacity. Sure, it is calculated, but that is where your tuner earns his / her money.

I have just (as in yesterday) put a Megasquirt on my NA FJ20 in my DR30 RS. I used the factory wiring for everything but the TPS and MAT sensor. I wanted to use the factory wiring so that I could unplug the Megasquirt and plug in the factory ECU (with the re-install of the MAF and original throttle switch). It is literally a 5 minute switch over job.

Once I put a diff back in the car, basic tuning will begin. Fine tuning will be done on the rolling road, so while I am there I will plug the original ECU back in. Needless to say, the results should be interesting!

I have a plan to slap a turbo on the side of the NA block at Xmas, so having an ECU that would cater for all possibilities was important. Cost was also important. All up, the Megasquirt cost me about $450, including sensors.

Fair enough , most use MAP load sensed management .

The factory chose Vane type or Hot Wire sensors for their accuracy . The vane type was made under licence from Bosch and was use to measure the mass of the airflow , the temp sensor should be in the AFM unit . The Hot Wire AFM is the most accurate and needs no temperature compensation because its part of the signal it generates . Load sensing from MAP runs into problems with pressure pulses . If atmospheric pressure is reached before full load (NA) all you have is the rpm signal to tune with . Running throttle bodys shows this up all the time and TPS (even more crude) or MAF is the only answer .

The aftermarket manufacturers seem reluctant to go to MAF technology which is a pity because there are definate advantages . There is no lack of quite high capacity MAF sensors , the GTR brigade often use two like Nissan did .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...