Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just on the hunt for some security adn was wodering which was better? I understand the Mannix is 2 way system but what sort of info does it send back to the little PDA thingy>?

Also...prices and best places to get them for both items would be awesome

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88455-mannix-vs-autowatch/
Share on other sites

I know im selling a brand new Mannix haha i wont say anything about the Autowatch cause i know nothing about it.. heres the mannixs features

Found these two sites selling it too.. so $250 is fair!

http://www.360carcustoms.com/maalwilcd.html

http://www.autoaccessorystore.com/home.asp?dir=detail&id=440

MANNIX

ALARM & IMMOBILISER WITH TWO WAY LCD PAGER AND REMOTE START

"Mannix™, One Of The Most Advanced Car Alarms In The World"

* Parking Timer On the LCD Remote : Parking Meter on Your Palm. When driving, Show the Driving Time Automatically.

* Defrost Output Activate the defrost mode to melt the snow on your rear window.

* Engine Start Reservation: Remote Start automatically on the time you set every morning.

* Aux. 1 & Aux. 2 for the custom installation like Window Roll Up or Door Pop--- 007 Movie !

* Anti Hi-Jacking :When hijacked, you can shot down the engine from your remote.

* Cold Start : Auto remote start and shot down

System Features

* 2-Way Pager FM to FM Transmitter, with LCD Graphics Display

Remote Engine Start, Pre-Warm & Pre-Cool

Remote Boot Release

* Remote Keyless Entry

* Arm/Disarm, Silent Arm/Disarm

* Real-Time Instant Audio & Graphic Alert, of Car Status, Arm,

Disarm, Engine Start, Door/ Bonnet/ Boot Open, Impact, Violations

* Remote Panic, If attacked when approaching or in the car

* LCD Graphics Display, for Real-Use functions,

like Turbo, IG Lock, etc (total 13 Icons, easy to Use)

Super Bright LED, Blue Arming Indicator

* Engine Running Time, Programmable from 1 to 30 min

* Dome Light Supervision

* Timer Display, Parking Meter / Driving

* Anti-Scan Technology

Operation Error Alert, Through LCD Remote

* Low Battery Alert

* LCD Back Lighting

* Real Time Clock, Digital

* Anti-Carjacking, allows you to stop the car via remote

* Defroster Operation

* Control Up To Four Vehicles, From One Remote.

* Control One Car, From Up To Four Remotes

* Car Locator, Helps you find your car in a car park

This is what you get,

The Complete Kit ready to install.

1. Back-Up Remote as spare

2. Control Unit

3. LCD Remote Transmitter

4. All Wire Harnesses ready to Install.

5. 125dB Loud Siren

6. Double Stage Shock Sensor Kit

7. Hood Pin Kit

8. Super Bright Blue Arming LED

9. Compact FM to FM Antenna

10. AAA Battery for Remote

11. Immobiliser Relay Included

12. User guide, Installation Manual & Manual Transmission Instruction

13. A bundle of Wire Ties

and depending on which autowatch unit you are looking it it will conform to aust stds. the mannix item I have seen branded under 3-4 names and have fitted several. work fine for the intended application. autowatch would be my pick.

yep, I got an Autowatch system installed a few weeks ago. The installer will give you a certificate to say that it complies... for your insurance agency.

I got the 2nd from the top alarm/immobiliser. It's pretty good, except the installer was having some issues with the remote distance. (A case of positioning the transmit wire a bit better).

Cost me $550, http://www.autowatch.com.au/product.asp 446Premium, with the 4-button remote. Other brands had big, ugly remotes... this one has a built-in turbo timer, "car finder" feature, and I had the guy put a solenoid in the boot so the dual-stage unlock will pop the boot for me. (very handy when you're coming back to the car with a bunch of shopping)

The guy who did it for me is from "Security In Motion", but just call Autowatch if you're interested, and ask for a local installer to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...