Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...DME:B:ONA:AU:11

Ive been outbid for these GTT R34 guages, so if anyone wants some gauges for their Series 1, here they are! (ebay item 4578449632)

Brendan

you should buy a set of orange ones ian...

then i can buy your ones.....

i reckon it would look tops on your car :)

Hmmm, how stupid am I feeling today.. :-)

Damn that blue S2 Stagea looks FINE!

:O

Yep - I got it for the wife, but I've ended up driving it myself quite a bit.. :-) Bayside Blue (BB), what other colour would you want... :-)

Though I reckon muck's looks pretty good as well (for one that isn't BB), it's in the "Super clear red II" (correct me if I'm wrong) - you should post some picks of it.

Ian

Splitfires; Are they worth the cash?

Im in the middle of doing boost modifications (get my Apexi 'cooler & RB25 Neo turbo in the next fortnight), so should I be spending decent wadfuls of greenbacks to do the leads also (also considering Ive got an Apexi SITC ready to go on).

Opinions? Ive got 8k to go on the stage, but 5k has already been gobbled up!

Cheers, Brendan

Well I found that the stock coils on my r33 died after I went above 12psi, well they were fine until I hit ~4500rpm and then would cough and splutter. I whacked in a set of these and didnt have a problem after that.

There are a lot of different opinions about stock coils vs splitfires, but I have had only good experiances with splitfires.

My 2cents, dont buy them until you need them. And make sure you identify the coils specifically as a problem before you buy splitfires as what seems to be coils might be another problem, and buy splitfires might cover-up other issues, but then again I am by no means a mechanic, nor do I know much about cars or motors, just typing from experiance.

Excellent feedback, cheers Ska. Ive read a list of mods on your Stagea, so was intrigued to see what you thought of them. I'll keep my Paypal account closed for now then!

Well, I got an Apexi 'Hybrid' fmic from ebay Japan (good for 400hp), with the C-bend style end tank so that the pipe comes back behind the 'cooler and into the standard holes. Costing me $500 courier delivered (so I'll be selling the R34 'cooler in around 6 weeks), but looks to be in very good condition.

Add on to the Stagea the Neo turbo/actuator & Z32afm Ive picked up from forum members, and we should be laughing once its all dialled in on the new SITC and SAFC (both off ebay).

Its a good way to buy (off these forums & from ebay) but its also good to know if what you're buying will be of benefit (jury's out at the moment on the fmic with custom pipes, but we'll see...............)

Brendan

  • 3 weeks later...

just a note to anyone be scammed out of 8$ by buying workshop manuals off ebay - theyre just selling the same manuals that have been floating around the internet for ages, making money off people who dont know any better.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80275

hope this helps. sure people are already distributing the copyright material for free, but to make money on it crosses the already mostly crossed line...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...