Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we found out why my rb26 died, it wasnt from too much boost like we first thought.

this is the side of one of the pistons:

post-1-1127821546.jpg

scratched up pretty bad

and we think this was the problem:

post-1-1127822028.jpg

perhaps in japan they upgraded the pump but used the standard crank.

so for the other guys building there rb26's, if your going to upgrade to an N1 oil pump, you might want to get a 33gtr crank, or atleast get the standard one built up so the driver is longer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89477-the-oil-pump-stuffed-it/
Share on other sites

Thats not the problem.

The problem occurs when they actually crack.

Open up the oil pump and inspect the internal gear.

I've seen a few pumps that are fine but have a little wear on the drive gear. Unless the wear is so extreme the crank drive spins without touching the oil pump drive, in your case this is not the case. :)

so thats normal for an R32?

why is the side of the piston all scratched up?

there are big scratches like this on 2 pistons, and all the other ones have similar marks but not as bad. or is normal to have scratches like that?

At a guess the pistons from 5 & 6 have the most scuffing? It's normal to get a bit of wear on the skirts, but in severe cases where the pistons have gotten too hot (common in a detonation senario) then they are going to expand a bit more/ scuff & scrape a bit more.

If the motor has been run pretty hot that could lead to overheating, then your pistons would look like that pic i.e. detonation and scuffed hard.

so thats normal for an R32?

why is the side of the piston all scratched up?

there are big scratches like this on 2 pistons, and all the other ones have similar marks but not as bad. or is normal to have scratches like that?

All the deep pitting around the top is indicative of detonation, which then starts the scoring. Then oil comes past burning in the combustion chamber causing more detonation and compression is gradually lost.

Doughboy: its from pistons 4 and 5. sorry i dont have pics of bearings and crank. but the crank was fine. i never heard and detonation or anything

geoff: thanks, i guess something like that must have happened..

i just thought it was weird how the driver didnt go all the way in and thought it may have been changed..

thanks for the info

Let me guess...your turbos blew as well??

That looks to me like it's had ceramic dust go through it.

it looks like something like that hey, but the turbos are fine.

maby some prick took off the head and droped some rocks in there while i wasnt looking <_< <_<

maby some prick took off the head and droped some rocks in there while i wasnt looking <_<  <_<

No not rocks, Geoff is spot on, some detonation, pieces of molten piston, poor oil control, more detonation, loss of ring seal, more oil, more detonation............etc. Not the oil pump's fault, you either have a tuning problem (most likely) or an injector/fuel supply problem (worth checking).

:P cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...