Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(yet has nuthin in common with gtr either)

:P Oops, maybe I should stick to speaking for myself. :)

I guess Ive never been in a GTR so should have kept my typing fingers to myself. At the end of the day, even a RS260 wouldnt exactly 'feel' like a GTR. Its a wagon, not a coupe!

Nevertheless, what a TOP car!

Some of my mates hassle me about owning a 'block of flats on wheels', but I love the car.

I was looking for a wagon, but didn't want a Subaru (be like every 2nd person here in NZ) and the Legnum VR4's are pretty unreliable apparently. Both of them cost about 3-4 grand more for the same year/km's and are smaller.

As for Falcon/Commadore, no where near the same technology for the price.

Nah, sorry, dont agree with that. After owning an R33 GTR before the stagea and owning an R33 Gtst before that I can safely say that the GTR package as a whole is far superior to the Stagea and the Gtst with both performance, braking, handling etc. I have recently been considering dropping an RB26 in my stag when I do the manual conversion later this year. Altho, an RB30 bottom end is also attractive.

Well true, I cant really comment as I have never owned a gtr. But I have driven a 12sec r32 gtr and I cant comment for stocker stag's but mine gets up and goes like the r32 gtr I drove, all seat of the pants guage :D

Hence my comment linking the gtr with the stagea. Obviously I was wrong :D

Nah man, that was a top comment (we both know you're right!)  :)

Either that or we're both dreamers :D

Either way I dont think I'll go back to a skyline, for the time being, the stagea is just waaaaaay too much fun :)

Well, thats true, I am a dreamer... But fact is with 141kw at the moment, I just cant see the need to have anything over 180-200kw. The car goes fantastically well enough as is. Handles well, goes aok, but could do with better front rotors.

Well, thats true, I am a dreamer... But fact is with 141kw at the moment, I just cant see the need to have anything over 180-200kw. The car goes fantastically well enough as is. Handles well, goes aok, but could do with better front rotors.

haha u wouldnt say that if u drove a manual 350rwhp stagea i can tell you now :P

fun fun fun

Oh yeah, I can imagine.

BUT, Ive got meself a beast of Fireblade (ie 8k+ of power, handling, stopping & 'look' mods). So I get to absolutely ring its neck out thru the awesome Adelaide Hills and get all my stresses ut of my system, and then I guess I drive the Stagea rather sedately, in comparison!

250hp from the car will be just fine for me; as its meant to be a family car!!! :-)

But Ive read youre mods, and Im envious. Green with envy in fact.

Oh yeah, I can imagine.

BUT, Ive got meself a beast of Fireblade (ie 8k+ of power, handling, stopping & 'look' mods). So I get to absolutely ring its neck out thru the awesome Adelaide Hills and get all my stresses ut of my system, and then I guess I drive the Stagea rather sedately, in comparison!

250hp from the car will be just fine for me; as its meant to be a family car!!! :-)

But Ive read youre mods, and Im envious. Green with envy in fact.

haha yer a bike is no comparision to cars especially 1800kg wagons :D id get a bike but they are too dangerous and people just dont see you in traffic and its a disaster waiting to happen imho :D

also i didnt mean the stagea is not a gtr comment in a bad way just commenting on the facts, and when i initially bought it i thought it was close to a gtr but the more i drove it and pulled things apart ive found nissan saved some $$$ and used only what was necessary (autos=less drivetrain stress) and therefore the horribly pissy rear diff axles and unis meant for a sr20 silvia or something, and brakes from a silvia sized car, the transfer case on the rear of the auto box is even different when internals are compared to a gtr manual transfer case, and i mean major differences in the main arm pushing the clutch packs together is only pressing with half as much force due to different designs.

swaybars are silvia thicknesses for a huge car :(

anyway they are brilliant cars none the less and id rather the staj over a skyline anyday of the year :)

haha yer a bike is no comparision to cars especially 1800kg wagons :) id get a bike but they are too dangerous and people just dont see you in traffic and its a disaster waiting to happen imho  :(

also i didnt mean the stagea is not a gtr comment in a bad way just commenting on the facts, and when i initially bought it i thought it was close to a gtr but the more i drove it and pulled things apart ive found nissan saved some $$$ and used only what was necessary (autos=less drivetrain stress) and therefore the horribly pissy rear diff axles and unis meant for a sr20 silvia or something, and brakes from a silvia sized car, the transfer case on the rear of the auto box is even different when internals are compared to a gtr manual transfer case, and i mean major differences in the main arm pushing the clutch packs together is only pressing with half as much force due to different designs.

swaybars are silvia thicknesses for a huge car  :O

anyway they are brilliant cars none the less and id rather the staj over a skyline anyday of the year  :D

Thats excellent info, cheers for letting us know (damn Nissan - why have you duped us with cheap components, why why?). Mate, facts are good, its why we all read these forums (well, me anyway). I want to learn the facts about Stageas in general. Totaly understand it aint a GTR (would have bought a 260RS for that), but its still one fine Nissan. So practicle........., sexy........., smooth lines........., just plain yummy....., I think Im in love!

From what you've said, it makes all the more reason / sense to keep under that 200-4wkw mark. Cheers.

Bikes are cool, but I DONT ride in traffic, only to get fuel and air, and then straight to the Hills (Im 2kms away!). This Fireblade IS NOT for 60kmph city traffic. ;) I just hope I dont have a big one, if you know what I mean. Hhhhm, must get life insurance.

:D

Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...