Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Had a chance to test mine out today, with the help of Cubes and his laptop. :)

Had to setup the com port to recognize the usb adaptor supplied by the Datalogit people. After it was done, we had no problems with data transfer, or dropouts.

I need get a AFR meter on the car to fully utilise the software and cable :O

Also i can recommend people to get Dataloglab. It makes a hell of a difference to reading the logged data that we grabbed while cruising.

Edited by Bl4cK32

Whats the brand is your Serial->USB adaptor Bl4ck32?

EDIT: Girls... Post your datalogit logs. :O

The highest load (airflow hence power) peak we saw was

Bl4ck32's peaks at 17322, approx load point 17-18 - RB20DET Highflow ~15-16psi)

Mine peaks with a load of 14832, approx load point 16-17 (VG30DET TUrbo ~12psi tailing off to 10psi)

Edited by Cubes

This is the Serial to USB dongle the datalogit likes/uses.

http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/14/0c02f714.asp

I've had a little look around, it looks as if the dongle is only available in NZ.

Edited by Cubes

very handy it is. what ive been doing is setup the temp ign increase on the hand controller then load datalogit and run map watch with advanced knock and watch the avg / max values to see how it pans it and you can quickly work out what areas where you can afford more timing

i had a 20 minute datalogit session just lost as the laptop battery went flat and datalogit doesnt write/commit until the end :O

Why does the values from basic knock differ from advanced knock?

The basic knock values read higher, i.e one of the logs had a ping of 115 in basic yet it was only 60 in advanced. Both set to max.

Edited by Cubes

hmm that explains it then cos i was doing advanced knock watch and i saw a few rows of 100+ but the max the hand controller showed was 52. and i dont recall my tune knocking that much also. good thinkin 99. ive asked to join the usergoups so hopefully this stuff is covered in there

Why does the values from basic knock differ from advanced knock?

The basic knock values read higher, i.e one of the logs had a ping of 115 in basic yet it was only 60 in advanced. Both set to max.

It has always behaved that way. I remember asking the question and the answer from the programmers of the Datalogit was :

There should be no difference between Basic and Advanced Knock. The Basic and Advanced groups correspond to 2 different commands to get different groups of data out of the Power-FC.

Since the knock reading has a peak and hold effect between readings, there is a chance that either the Advanced otr the Basic knock will see a higher knock, but shouldn't happen consistently.

There is a chance that there is a bug in FC-Edit or actually in the Power-FC itself. What is your Power-FC type and version number?

There was also another input from a member who contributes regularly.

Unfortunately I do not know the exact reason why Basic knock shows higher values than Advanced knock. Here are some possibilities:

1)      Sampling rates are different

a.      One setup may be checking for knock values at a higher sampling frequency and that’s why it’s able to recorded some higher values

2)      On some applications, there are two knock sensors

a.      While it’s doubtful, that each sensor is tied to a different mode (one for advanced, one for basic) you never know what was going through the engineer’s mind that set up the system.

b.      If both modes sample at the same rate (thus #1 possibility is eliminated), it may be possible that one mode shows the peak value for one of the two sensors while the other mode shows an average value.

Whatever the case, it’s of little value to look at just a peak number from a knock sensor. You really need to look at the datalog in the chart screen and see the plot of knock sensor values. Remember, a knock sensor is nothing more than a specialized microphone that’s designed to listen for sounds in the frequency range of knock. As the engine rpm is increased it’s normal to see higher values from the knock sensor. Actual knock is going to look like a quick spike from the normal values. Thus, it’s going to show up whether you look at it in the Advanced or the Basic mode. 

You ears and a good stethoscope or HKS Knock amplifier with headphones is an even better way to listen for knock.

.

It has access to ignition correction values for air temp, water temp, voltage, etc...

Every Power FC has these correction tables, but they are not accessible with the hand controller. On the other hand, i have never touched mine, as they look pretty spot on with default values.

For example (for the GTR Datalogit), upto 50 degrees intake temp, it uses the normal values from the ignition map. From 50 to 60 C, it starts taking out 3 degrees, between 60 and 70 C, it takes another 2 degrees (up to 5 all up) from the ignition map. In short, if your intake temps were 70 C, it would run 5 degrees less ignition.

As i stated long time ago, the main advantage of the Datalogit as its name suggests, is to log data. Unlocked tuning parameters is just an added bonus.

Emre,

I'll go by the basic knock as that has consistently returned higher knock values with both Bl4ck32 and my R32 AP PowerFC.

With the PFC H/C plugged in at the same time the H/C has reported the same knock value as the datalogits basic knock.

It appears my and bl4ck32's knock sensors are working well.

General driving and cruising it basically sits on 1, give it a boot full and it will creep to 20-30 and that is it, if it goes higher then it will most definitely hit either 60ish or 100ish with quick spikes. It never holds an even 45+.

Edited by Cubes

I wanted to check the same thing, but while logging data, my hand controller freezes and doesn't display or hold any values.

On the other hand, while i had some high knock values under 'basic knock', there were no warning flashes coming from the dash.

Interestering...

When Bl4ck32 was using the laptop it was in advanced knock, i gunned it in third, dash light flashed and asked him if it went over 50 (I changed the max value before dash light flashes), he said no. :S

I've since pulled a few degree's out around 4000rpm, no more dash light flashing as there is no longer any det at that rpm. 5600rpm+ i've pulled a couple degree's out but I won't take the car there as its leaning out from then onwards.

Edited by Cubes

Interesting links....

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=14...ght=Basic+Knock

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=14...ght=Basic+Knock

Take the knock readings with a pinch of salt. Throw it on the dyno watch the exhaust and listen for ping. :)

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...