Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I have a problem with the TCS off and SLIP light turning on and the engine shuddering (sounds like a WRX and goes jerky as like the TCS system is engaged) on my R34 GTT. This happens on only a more rare occasion 1 in 10 starts and usually you would turn the car off and leave it for some time and start and the problem would go away. Would anyone know what is kind of the problem?

Just wondering if anybody else experienced this before on their car.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90532-tcs-off-and-slip-light-both-on/
Share on other sites

i had exactly the same thing happen to my car. it ended up being a coil pack. replaced it and its all good now. it was hard finding which one it was though took ages. honestly i am nearly 100% sure thats what your problem is. Check it out

i had exactly the same thing happen to my car.  it ended up being a coil pack. replaced it and its all good now. it was hard finding which one it was though took ages.  honestly i am nearly 100% sure thats what your problem is.  Check it out

Where abouts is the coil pack within the engine bay and whats the best way to find out which ones gone bad. Is it worth taking to a garage to look at, and how much was it to replace?

Cheers,

the coils are situated under the coil cover in between the rocker covers. if you arent mechanically minded or capable take it to a garage as it is a bit of a hastle to get to with the r34. But if you know your way around a skyline engine bay it is a 1 hr job.

To find which one you have to disconnect each and every one separatly start the car and see which one has no effect when you disconnect it.

ie the engine still runs the same if you find the faulty one and runs even rougher if you disconnect waorking one.

the coils are situated under the coil cover in between the rocker covers.  if you arent mechanically minded or capable take it to a garage as it is a bit of a hastle to get to with the r34.  But if you know your way around a skyline engine bay it is a 1 hr job. 

To find which one you have to disconnect each and every one separatly start the car and see which one has no effect when you disconnect it.

ie the engine still runs the same if you find the faulty one and runs even rougher if you disconnect waorking one.

Yeah i think i know where it is, Need to get unlucky when starting the car to get that problem happening, otherwise it will run as fine.

How much was one coil to replace anyway?

Cheers,

1 coil brand new costs about 200 from nissan. You can get a second hand one for between 50 - 100 from a wrecker. Ulitmately getting a set of brand new splitfires would be the best around 600 from nengun i think.

the problem is only intermitant at the moment thats how mine started off soon it will happening all the time. sounds heaps bad hey??

nengun only sell coilpacks for r32/r33 s1 rb engines, modyourcar.com has them for about $900 or theres a group buy going which would bring the price down to about $750.

Question, why does this problem only really seem to happen to r34 gt-t's?

:)

Edited by RyanN

are you sure that nengun only sells splitfires for 32/33?

email them and ask i am sure he will source some for you. other wise try greenline.jp

i dont know why its just r34?? could be because of that stupid cover keeping the heat in or maybe because they bolt straight onto head rather than a plate like with the r33? and that heats up more i dont know but it sucks

if nengun had them for $600 that would be awesome, however i just double checked and the site has them only for 32s/32 gtr/and r33 s1. i will email and ask if hes got them for r34s at a decent price.

Edited by RyanN
if nengun had them for $600 that would be awesome, however i just double checked and the site has them only for 32s/32 gtr/and r33 s1. i will email and ask if hes got them for r34s at a decent price.

Cool, let me know how it goes for the R34, hard finding second hand ones, I rang up RevZone down at nunawading and they reckon they have it and sell it for 110.

If worse comes to worse then i'll get it from them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...