Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will be there for sure, not quite sure if I will be racing though. Sounds like it will be another fun track day :P

The form says the car must not exceed the road legal noise volume, I am pretty sure my car does. Roy has an externally vented gate as I recall and he was at the last Maserati track day at Sandown. So will they let it slide?

Edited by MSPEC
$175 paid by today, $200 paid after today.

OUCH ... sure make the wrx club sprints looks cheap ...

Yeah Maserati Club is for over-paid poofs that wear womens panties on their heads.

:P

(Thank god my car doesn't need any work on it for a little while!)

Yeah Maserati Club is for over-paid poofs that wear womens panties on their heads.

:P

(Thank god my car doesn't need any work on it for a little while!)

hey until you can carry Rb26's on your shoulder you can't talk!!!

(yep my car does need work)

HAHA who is going from SAU.

I will make you a deal, I will stop being soft if you pay the $200 entry fee :P

Just think of it as if you dont run at sandown those nice new semi comps will be wasted until feb next year, which is the next event of the callender

But by that time next year I will still have lots or rubber on them if I dont go and an extra $200 in my pocket. Might give it a miss, few other events coming up that I will need some spare cash for.

But by that time next year I will still have lots or rubber on them if I dont go and an extra $200 in my pocket. Might give it a miss, few other events coming up that I will need some spare cash for.

Be careful how and where you store them. I may be over reacting but they do harden and go off if not being used. So try and make sure they are in a cool dark place.

Hate to see you rock up to a track day in 5 months time with what looks to be healthy rubbe ronly to find they have as much grip as tonka tyres.

Has anyone got any facts when it comes to storing these types fo tyres?

Thanks mate, I probably wont go for more than 2 months without using them for at least a weekend. They are still on the car now anyway and will be until I can get another set of rims for the wet weather tires :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...