Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently bought an r32 with a rb25det in it. The problem i have

is that i have no speedo. People tell me that this is because the

r32 has a mechanical driven speedo where as the r33 is electronic.

Can anyone help with any suggestions!!!! Thanks

Its has the rb25 g/box aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90741-need-help-r32-with-rb25det/
Share on other sites

i recently bought an r32 with a rb25det in it. The problem i have

is that i have no speedo. People tell me that this is because the

r32 has a mechanical driven speedo where as the r33 is electronic.

Can anyone help with any suggestions!!!! Thanks

Its has the rb25 g/box aswell.

I need to know the same thing as I have the same problem.

Just got the R32 with Rb25 in it and not working :blink:

Apparently the series 1 motor from the R33 is cable driven.

Also I went to install my power FC and noticed that the wires for speed and RPM are not plugged in.. .weird.

Greg

The simple solution (but not necessarily the cheapest) is to re-fit the RB20 'box. They seem more than capable of withstanding the power / torque of a RB25DET (I have the RB25DET up against the stock gearbox in my 32 GTS4, and the 'box handles 180kW at 4 wheels).

The cheapest option is to swap the speedo drives in the gearbox, but I'm not sure if that is possible or not.

I was told by Dom at Protek that the R33 series 1 gearboxes are cable driven and the series 2 boxes are electrical. I have a series 2 R33 RB25 but not 100% sure on the box. I already broke what ever is inside (within 4 days) running 0.68 bar so we'll see what it is and I suppose I can see what options we have.

I'll let you guys know what happens.

Greg

no worries, keep me posted im just gonna drive mine without for a while. i have series 2 motor and box aswell.

cheers

bret

Yeah, im not 100% sure what series box I have as it isn't out yet. I already broke it after a few days only running 0.68 bar.

When I bought mine I thought I was getting something unique :)

What other mods does yours have?

Greg

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys what you need is an R32 GTR speed drive unit. They are a direct bolt into the RB25DET gearbox and accept the factory speed cable. I can say this being 100% sure as I just yesterday installed the drive unit and I once again have a speed in my cefiro. Also don't let anyone tell you the RB20 gearbox is up to the job of and RB25, you will kill it really quickly.

dude u can get part from nissan bolt straight it about 80 bucks i can get one for u if u want i know the part number pm me i have it in my 32 with 33 series 2 box speedo about 3klms over actual speed so realy close

The cheapest way to put a cable speedodrive in the RB25DET box is to use Navara speedodrive part no 32702-02G17.

It is very similar to the R32GTR speedodrive and only costs about $20.

Both these units require modification to work properly.

It requires some basic tools and skills.

There maybe a speedodrive available that bolts straight in but not at this price.

The Navara speedodrive comes with a 17 tooth gear that

you'll need to remove and replace it with the red 20 tooth gear from the rb25det box electronic speedodrive.

For an R32 with the stock diff and tyres the ideal number of teeth is 21.

I estimate the 20 tooth gear will read about 105kph at 100kph but would be closer if you're running larger tyres.

You need to punch out the rollpin so you can pull the shaft out of the Navara assembly.

Use a hacksaw to cut along both sides of the 17 tooth gear being careful not to scratch the shaft. It should pry off.

Remove the circlip and pull the red gear from the electronic speedodrive.

The red gear located on a flat spot on the end of the shaft

Use a round file to make the hole in the gear round.

Be careful not to make it sloppy on the shaft.

Support the red gear and drive the Navara shaft in until the splines press all the way in leaving about 2mm of shaft sticking out the end of the gear.

It's a tight fit so it should stay put.

Care needs to be taken to make sure the gear will mesh correctly with the wormgear inside the box.

You will notice the shaft is slightly off centre in the assembly.

Nissan rotate the assembly to compensate for the difference in diameter of the various gears they use.

Depending on the gear diameter they cut the retaining slot in a particular location to secure the assembly at a certain rotational position to achieve the correct gear clearance.

For the 20 tooth gear on the Navara assembly you'll need to cut a new retaining slot exactly 180 degrees opposite the original slot.

I cut the slot with a hacksaw and cleaned it up with the edge of a small file. You need to be accurate here.

Put the shaft back in the assembly and drive the rollpin back in.

Check that it has about half a mm of end float.

Now it should be ready to go in the box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...