Jump to content
SAU Community

Sudden Loss Of Engine Power?

brent47

By brent47,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

brent47 Rookie

brent47

Posted
Posted

To start with its a rb20det in my 32, sometimes after a bit of a hard run it'll do it, and other times just after it gets up to operating temp. if i try to accelrate it suddenly loses all power but no warning lights come on, and often stalls, then it'll run fine again and i can push as hard as i want....

I also have a light on at the moment now that looks like a cat conerter with heat coming of it, red light in the dash.....on idle it stays on and when reving it flashes....whats it trying to tell me???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90996-sudden-loss-of-engine-power/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

The light will not come on if it is not hooked up. The light only comes on if it detects excessive heat which usually mean you have a rooted cat converter. Take your car to an exhaust shop and get them to remove it and inspect it. Most of the time you can just hit it from underneath and hear it rattle. If it rattles it's buggered. This can cause sudden loss of power including symptoms like the following:

Won't rev over a certain RPM

Uses excessive fuel

Engine cuts out

Exhaust smells like rotten eggs from the back

Can cause the turbo manifold to get red hot in some cases which can melt your impella (this is bad)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...