Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After doing lots of searching and still being left with questions....

I finally installed it myself. B)

I was able to study the tubing on a RB26 that was out of a car... It really easy once you know what you're dealing with, last owning a subie I had to understand a bit more about the GTR before attempting this...

By following the copper tubing that the actuators were attached to I saw that there was a T to the bottom of the plentum (short hose also with a yellow stripe and restrictor)

then continued to the factory solenoid.(this is the hose with the boost restrictor/yellow stripe)

The other hose from the factory boost solenoid ends at the air intake(this is the only one I needed to plug since the other cooper tubing will no longer be in use)

I didn't have to take anything appart to install the boost controll kit to my 91 GTR.

You'll need long angled needle nose pliers to reach the plentum hose and actuator hoses.

First I unpluged the short hose from under the plentum(back towards the firewall) and fitted the supplied long vacuum hose to the plentum.

I ran this hose over by the ABS unit were I would later mount the BCK solenoid(but not too close, on the firewall), I cut the hose at this location, this plugs to the NO port on the solenoid.

I then unpluged the rear actuator hose and fitted a new pice of hose just long enough almost reach the top of the strut tower, I placed a T fitting there running one side to the solenoid and one side to the front actuator.( the front one was easy to reach since I have the biltz filters and was able to just lift the front filter out of the way)

My BCK apex-i part 415-A001 came with a harness that plugged in to the solenoid at one end and the factory solenoid plug at the other end(no splicing to the map sensor wiring that plugs to the PFC) and the map sensor that plugs to the PFC.

The map sensor hose gets T'ed between the plentum and the fuel pressure regulator( on top right of the plentum towards front) and the wiring gets plugged in to the PFC.

There is a big rubber gromet in the firewall(take the plastic cover to expose the computer and follow the thick wire hasness) you'll need to unscrew a few of the clips on the wheel well to push the plastic out of the way enough to guide the map sensor plug through the hole in the engine bay and through the firewall.

(I wrapped the sensor plug and a bit of the wire in electrical tape leaving a tail on it to be able to pull it thruogh)

I guess you can use a wire coat hanger to help you pull it through, but be careful not to put holes in the electrical wiring...(maybe wrap that in electrical tape also...)

I didn't want to risk it so I poked my finger through it enough to be able push the sensor plug a bit and pulled it from the inside of the car. (this gets plugged in to the PFC and is how the hand controller will read boost)

I mounted the BCK map sensor next to the factory map sensor.

I paid $363 US for the Boost Control Kit.

Hope this helps some people. :rolleyes:

................................................................................

..................................

or even a simpler way if you don't mind having the boost solenoid far from the turbos.

this write up is on a r33gtr: http://www.zenadsl2412.zen.co.uk/InstallingApexiAVCR.pdf

Edited by Godzilla in NY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92133-power-fc-boost-control-kit-diy/
Share on other sites

What kind of plugs or pins goes to the Power FC???  I have 3 pin plug from the boost control sensor and 2 from the  boost controller.  Do all 5 go to the power fc?

On my gtr the 3 pin plug went to the PFC and the 2 pin plug from the BCK solenoid itself (mine had a two pin plug on the end which has one spade facing vertical and the other horizontally), goes to what used to be conected to the stock solenoid.

If your stock solenoid wiring is different, you'll have to cut and solder.

hope that helps. :)

Edited by Godzilla in NY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...