Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, like the majority of you, after having my blitz bov for a few weeks, ive began to get really annoyed with that ***tty sound. i was thinking of taking the bov of and runnin the car without one. (dunno what happened to my stock one). would the car still run fine and safe?. ive got a s1 r33gtst with just a turbo back exhaust and a blitz pod on stock boost. would i begin to get that loud fluttering sound if i take it of (not a vl tutut fan). also in the near future im getting a front mount and winding the boost up to 10psi. would i be doin any harm to the turbo runnin on 10psi with no bov at all? is there anything else recommended to upgrade on my car to run 10psi safely all day long.

any help would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93396-no-bov-on-r33/
Share on other sites

dude, you can't not have a BOV or Bypass Valve (which is what the stock one is.) If you cap it off You'll Sh#t your turbo!! If you just leave it disconnected, you'll have one hell of a boost leak. Find a stock one and put it back on, someone on here will have one for you, at a small fee ofcourse. As for running 10psi you'll be alright if you're tuning is up to snuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93396-no-bov-on-r33/#findComment-1685842
Share on other sites

i was thinking of taking the bov of and runnin the car without one. (dunno what happened to my stock one). would the car still run fine and safe?.

the car will run a little rougher than with the stock bov and could stall occasionally.

ive got a s1 r33gtst with just a turbo back exhaust and a blitz pod on stock boost.  would i begin to get that loud fluttering sound if i take it of (not a vl tutut fan)

Yes you will get that sound.

also in the near future im getting a front mount and winding the boost up to 10psi. would i be doin any harm to the turbo runnin on 10psi with no bov at all? is there anything else recommended to upgrade on my car to run 10psi safely all day long.

any help would be appreciated

Here's a recommendation.

look in parts for sale section and buy a stock bov for $20

save you a lot of hassles.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93396-no-bov-on-r33/#findComment-1685855
Share on other sites

Not another bov vs no bov thread.

Your car will be fine, It may stall after a big lift off if you have a really short intake pipe, it will be a little slower coming on boost between gear changes. For those reasons alone i would install a plumb back bov but it isn't essencial.

I am yet to see one of these damaged turbos as a result of running no bov, i have never been told by a tuner/mechanic/workshop that i should install a bov because i'll kill my turbo, I've yet to kill a turbo by running no bov. Can someone please provide some evidence that no bov is pure death for turbos so that when ever someone asks this question we can post a link that shows a comp wheel with no blades and say "see"?

Then whenever someone in a mirage drives past and has some massive wheels and even bigger flutter we can all smirk even more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93396-no-bov-on-r33/#findComment-1686671
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...