Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Garage Clean Out

Location:Perth

Item Condition:Varing Conditions

Reason for Selling:Need more space and money

Price and Payment Conditions:Would prefer Perth buyers but will sell to anywhere

Hi all

I am having a garage clean out and I have several thing to sell:

- Blitz Blow Off Valve (possible a DD modle but not sure) $250

- std R34 (Rb25det NEO) Turbo with polished compressor housing (perfect cond) $700 (Great upgrade for R32s and R33s)

RB20DET Parts (R32)

- std turbo (good condition, never boosted, minimal shaftplay) $400

- std Flywheel (machined and balanced) + clutch (slips) $300

- cat back 3.5in exhaust (been modified to fit R32 4 door syline) $100

SR20DET Parts (S13 180sx)

- std T25 turbo (suits rebuild) $50

- std Exhaust manifold $50

- std Fuel pump $30

- std Injectors x4 $200

- std Airflow metre (with plug) $100

- std Front calipers x2 $150

- std Clutch pressure plate + clutch plate $80

- std Comp $200

- std Timing chain guides (both sides) with bolts (all perfect condition) $100

- Interior console cover (thing that clicks around radio and gear stick) $50

- Auto gearbox shifter (sports one, not standard, looks cool) $50

All prices are negotiable and pics can be provided apon request

Iam located in Perth and would prefer Perth buyers but will sell to anyone :) , but buyer will have to pay for postage :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94208-rb20det-sr20det-garage-clean-out/
Share on other sites

hi in perth also, could i arrange viewing time for exhaust...and would like to noe wat has been modified.

also does it include muffler? wat style is the system.

thx

hi

Well the exhaust is 3.5 inch all the way through with a middle muffler and a end muffler. Looks very similar or even could be like a HKS or Turst exhaust. We got it from some jap wreckers saying it would fit an 32 but it didint so all we did was modify the length and the supports, thats all. It should fit a 2 door also but not sure. It bolts atraight on after the cat and looks and sounds good.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...