Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a GTS-4 and i also had this prob but it was a fairly violent shake. This was because i needed two new rears and a mate fitted ones that were slightly smaller than the old ones. as soon as i hit about 3G+ the car would shake, because it thinks that the rears are spinning at different speed to front. i just drove around in RWD for a few weeks then threw the same tyres on the front and problem solved.

P.S. i have fitted a switch running from the 4WD/ABS fuse so that i can drive in RWD or 4WD wheather i need a quick launch or a little slide. I suggest gettin a switch hooked up. and its a piece of piss. :O

I have a GTS-4 and i also had this prob but it was a fairly violent shake. This was because i needed two new rears and a mate fitted ones that were slightly smaller than the old ones. as soon as i hit about 3G+ the car would shake, because it thinks that the rears are spinning at different speed to front. i just drove around in RWD for a few weeks then threw the same tyres on the front and problem solved.

P.S. i have fitted a switch running from the 4WD/ABS fuse so that i can drive in RWD or 4WD wheather i need a quick launch or a little slide. I suggest gettin a switch hooked up. and its a piece of piss. :O

:D nicee! i should do that too! just a question. on the gtr the 4wd fuse is also the heater fuse. does it mean if i pull it out i wont get heater? good thing its summer! i might need to drive around in rwd too until i get new rears.

  • 3 weeks later...

Just a bit of advice if anyone else has this problem, it turns out that it was just the uneven tyres at the front and rears. The problem is gone after i got new rims! So before you do all the other stuff, check to see if the tyre wear is even at the front and back.

Cheers

Phil

  • 9 years later...

Ok, now i have a bit more time,

We had to replace a broken CV boot on the right hand side, at the same time it was time for a little investigation into the problem, as soon as the CV was off the car the 2 guys in the workshop (Simon and Nathan) saw the problem.

There are 3 symetrical "dents" in the end of the CV housing from the roller part (sorry lack of technical speak) from where the two had clearly been bashing each other for a long time.

Also there was a lip formed at the other end that looked to be caused by the driveshaft grinding away at this point.

Nathan got rid of the lipped sections and put the front back together.

I took it for a drive to get it to shake, it will still shake a TINY bit but only after one of those huge speed humps where the car gets all 4 wheels on it (the type outside most schols). This is really no problem as you can simply wait for the rears to be back on the road and then accelerate. By doing this there is no shaking at all.

Hope this helps guys.

(total cost inc new genuine CV boot was only a few hundred - a small price to pay to solve this issue)

I had this problem, and asked my mechanic to look at this post. He found issues with the CVs as you described... problem is now resolved! Thanks very much!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...