Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering whether you can lower the standard suspension as it is and if so, how do you go about it?

OR

Do you need alternative springs, shocks, etc to lower the car. This is for a Series II Stagea that I am happy with the feel of the suspension just want it to be lower for pure visual reasons.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers, Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95569-standard-suspension-lowering/
Share on other sites

You can keep the standard springs, the rates are a pretty good compromise. Then use the adjustable circlip grooves on the Bilsteins to achieve the desired height. Mine was like that for some months until I engineered the Whiteline springs, it was quite good handling and ride. Be aware that there is a limit as to how low you can go with the standard springs, most particularly the rear as the bottom spring seat will touch the wheel. Refer to StageZilla's pictures.

:( cheers :)

Can you lathe adjustable spring gruves into any (within reason) suspension strut?

Ive picked up some KYB items that I'd like to give it a go with........

It depends on the wall thickness of the tube. Skyline Bilsteins are monotube design and they are engineered to have circlip grooves to retain the lower spring seats, so they have no problems. I wouldn't want to machine a twin tube KYB for example, I suspect the wall thickness wouldn't take a circlip groove.

:( cheers :)

Thats what I was thinking..... probably hard to determine how thick the wall is as well. Cheers for the input. Dont know if I'll ever use the KYB's, got them to muck around with (one day).

Brendan

Just wondering whether you can lower the standard suspension as it is and if so, how do you go about it?

OR

Do you need alternative springs, shocks, etc to lower the car.  This is for a Series II Stagea that I am happy with the feel of the suspension just want it to be lower for pure visual reasons.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers, Al

hey mate i just got a set of the whiteline/bilstein kits from SK and my stagea came with a set of lowered apexi springs/standard shocks, so i can sell ya the springs (shocks are stuffed) for $100 and im in perth, northern suburbs. :P

ill measure the length of em and you can compare to a set of factory springs for the height difference...

heres a pic of the stagea with the original stock shocks/apexi springs

sideonstagea.jpg

cheers

Brad

Does anyone know the measurements of the standard Stagea springs?

Plus whether there are any differences in springs and shocks between the Series I models and Series II models?

Cheers, Al

Does anyone know the measurements of the standard Stagea springs?

Plus whether there are any differences in springs and shocks between the Series I models and Series II models?

Cheers, Al

No difference between S1 and S2 springs that I have seen.

What "measurements" do you want?

The height of the car with standard coils in it?

Or the dimensions of the coils themselves?

You can't tell how much a spring will lower a car by its free height, you need to know the spring rates as well. A lowering spring is usually higher in rate, so the weight of the car doesn't compress it as far.

:D cheers :(

No difference between S1 and S2 springs that I have seen.

What "measurements" do you want?

The height of the car with standard coils in it?

Or the dimensions of the coils themselves?

You can't tell how much a spring will lower a car by its free height, you need to know the spring rates as well.  A lowering spring is usually higher in rate, so the weight of the car doesn't compress it as far.

:D cheers :P

I was thinking of the dimensions of the coils themselves in response to Stagezilla's offer to purchase his old Apexi springs as I have the dimensions of those springs.

You answered the question though in a way with the bit about not being able to tell how much it will lower it by. Looking at pics of Stagezilla's car with those springs and standard shocks shows they should fit okay and reduce the height a fair bit but not too much.

Do you see any problems with just changing the springs whilst keeping the standard shocks as I am going to buy those springs off Stagezilla if they will do what I am looking for - ie lower the height properly.

Cheers, Al

I was thinking of the dimensions of the coils themselves in response to Stagezilla's offer to purchase his old Apexi springs as I have the dimensions of those springs.

You answered the question though in a way with the bit about not being able to tell how much it will lower it by.  Looking at pics of Stagezilla's car with those springs and standard shocks shows they should fit okay and reduce the height a fair bit but not too much.

Do you see any problems with just changing the springs whilst keeping the standard shocks as I am going to buy those springs off Stagezilla if they will do what I am looking for - ie lower the height properly.

Cheers, Al

Hi Al, the standard shocks don't control the standard springs very well when they are new. Asking well used shocks to control lowered springs which are at least 25% higher in spring rate is a bit optimistic. To save duplicating the labour I would do both springs and shocks at the same time.

:rolleyes: cheers :D

Hi Al, the standard shocks don't control the standard springs very well when they are new.  Asking well used shocks to control lowered springs which are at least 25% higher in spring rate is a bit optimistic.  To save duplicating the labour I would do both springs and shocks at the same time.

:) cheers :)

Thanks as always SK for your advice

if you want to lower it, id head to somewhere that does it professionally and has done it for a while. RSfours take (apparently) r33 gtr front and r33gtst rear suspension. if im wrong, please correct me! for the rear id probably go the 4doors settings, to cover the extra weight. stiffer again if you plan to carry weight, or have a stereo or something. If anyone knows of a crew that actually does stagea specific suspension, id love to hear from you. we could just about do with a group buy, hey.

The crew that does it is a member on these forums, username SydneyKid....

:D

You just missed the bilstein/whiteline group buy

There are still a couple of sets of Bilsteins left, so the Group Buy is open. But don't delay too long. Check out the Group Buy thread in the Stagea section or PM me for details.

:D cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...